Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 849 Threads: 123
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I think I may have to have work done on the clutch (1932 engine mated to a two synchro 4 speed box) due to a sudden failure of the engine to connect to the gearbox. I am removing the engine & separating the box to see what the condition appears to be, but can anyone point me at somewhere who can rebuild the clutch in the Midlands? Or who to avoid!!!
I can dismantle & reassemble, but don't feel the urge to rebuild things myself (apart from lack of skill, space etc!!)
By all means send me a pm if you don't want to go public with information.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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Car type:
have you checked that the prop definitely isn't moving with your problem? I seem to remember having that sort of feeling and others successfully diagnosing a halfshaft key.
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Location: North Yorkshire
If you think about it, there is very little that can happen within the clutch assembly that would cause a complete loss of drive. All I can come up with would be a complete separation of the centre plate from its splined boss, but this is unlikely. Loosening of the rivets is common but this would not prevent drive, it would cause roughness and vibration.
I think your problem is likely to be elsewhere!
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
David have you put the rear axle on stands and put the car in gear and turned it over on the handle to see if the prop shaft turns. In my mind this should prove if it is the clutch or further down the transmission. If the prop shaft turns but not the wheels then suspect diff or half shafts. From what you say about a loud bang coming from the clutch area I suspect that the steel clutch plate may have parted company with the splines or problems in the gearbox.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 849 Threads: 123
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I will try all these suggestions & report back! Getting the engine & box out together may be interesting as it was modified & put in in the 60s. - Home made flexible mountings on the short chassis, a later block (with fuel pump) Four speed box (2SYN S520marked) Hardy-Spicer propshaft (shortened?) I think it will come out ok, but getting it back may be a bit tight! I can do the contortionist act & undo the 8 mounting bolts!
The 750MC Austin Seven Companion is a mine of information on modifications made in the 50's & 60's such as my car has undergone, but much only serves to confuse!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 849 Threads: 123
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Curiouser & curiouser!
Up on axle stands, crank over in neutral....No PS rotation.
Engage gear, PS rotates
Wheels both rotate when in the air
Disengage clutch, rotation stops. So Clutch works as do gears.
Lower to the ground Wheels don't rotate. No drive!
In Neutral
With wheels in the air: rotate rear wheels together forward & back , PS rotates.
In gear
Turn both wheels, no PS rotation
Rear axle appears to be Type 3
So what went bang? CWP? pinion shaft? I hope not!
When turning over on the crank everything is silent...no graunchings or clicking.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 882 Threads: 48
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Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
My money would be on a 1/2 shaft....
CWP usually fails with a lot of noise as a precursor but could be a stripped pinion.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 927 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
With the handbrake set on and the wheels in the air can you still crank the engine when in gear? Another thing is that if a halfshaft has failed the relevant rear wheel usually wobbles on its bearing, handbrake off for this test.
