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Tried to heat, penetrant spray and then bash shaft with a rubber mallet while held across vice jaws.
That didn't work.
Do I need top buy a puller, or just be a bit more harsh to break the seal?
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Location: Scottish Borders
I use a three leg puller. Need to be careful, they're a bit brittle.
I make sure the puller is properly fitted, wind the puller up quite tight then hit the centre bolt firmly.
The one I have just fits in with the camshaft in situ.
Jim
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ok, thanks all. Glad I asked.
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I agree with removing the camshaft from the crankcase if feasable.
There is not much room behind the cam gear for a puller until its out of the crankcase.
I take it its a complete engine strip down.
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Yes, but leaving crank in. Its all largely "rebuilt" sic and doesn't look like it has run, but I've taken conrods off and will use all new bolts, replace strainers had been re-used and put it upside down) And there was a lot of play on the camshaft. The peg fine... but will do the tap thing.
Presses aren't cheap, but I'm wondering on the spec of a three leg puller as per Jim's experience. i.e. is it technically winging it, or is a 100mm or 150mm one perfectly up to the job? I suppose one could put a disc of hardboard behind the gear wheel.
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Hi Jon,
To take the shaft out the block has to come off to undo the square headed dowel. two bearing engines will drop the camshaft rollers into the sump.
Once the shaft is out you can use a block of hardwood with a hole the size of the front bearing as a support for the back of the gear while you apply your magic. You can make your own puller by using a plate over the nut with a couple of studs bolted through your lump of wood.
A three legged puller will probably break the gear teeth off ( been there done that )
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excellent thanks. It's all out of the block already.
I'll fettle a wood block and give that a go (before visiting someone with a press!)
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Hi Jon
For what it's worth, when I stripped my engine I took the camshaft out with the gear in situ. I then rested the gear on the oak "soft" jaws I'd made for my vice and used a brass drift with a sharp strike from an ordinary (i.e. not tiddly and not lump) hammer to separate the two. It's the sharp strike that shocks the taper apart, which explains your lack of success with a rubber mallet. The brass drift gives you a larger target to a aim at and the brass avoids the risk of fracturing the threaded end of the camshaft. Important to have something to catch the camshaft as it will exit the arrangement quite swiftly!
I would be very cagey about applying a puller to the outer rim of the timing gear. It's the impact that parts them, not the pull.
Good luck.
Colin