Improving on a design deficiency

[Ruairidh Dunford]

A sensible change though.

[JonE]

Slight thread drift but useful to have here perhaps. I'm going to use this later coil starting nut. Is there good advice for changing them over i.e. heat/no heat and where is best place to lock off the crank with engine out. Anything needed like locktight, or just clean and oil before screw in? thanks...

[Dave Mann]

I've not managed to strip one and not heard of one being stripped.

[Steve Bryant]

I have faith in the silver soldered joint. In my experience the base metals fail before the solder joint does and since the spigot of the extension protrudes into the original nuts internal hole by about 7/16" the soldered joint is around the spigot and on faces of the mating parts. 

To be honest I didn't feel like machining a new one from a lump of hexagonal rod.
Stephen

[Charles P]

+1 to Tony's comments above.

+2

[AustinWood]

+3. Never had a problem.

[Steve Bryant]

Thank you all for your comments and observations.  I've installed the nut and have been able to get a good torque on it. Time will tell if this idea was a good one or not.
Stephen

[Alan]

It won’t because it probably won’t fail. But, nor have any of thousands of engines using the correct parts.

[Howard Wright]

Slight thread drift but useful to have here perhaps. I'm going to use this later coil starting nut. Is there good advice for changing them over i.e. heat/no heat and where is best place to lock off the crank with engine out. Anything needed like locktight, or just clean and oil before screw in? thanks...

Hi Jon

I swapped to the later starter nut on the special (1929).  I can’t remember doing anything unusual.  I think I held the crank with a length of dowel wedged into the case. I didn’t use Loctite although I guess I could have.

Cheers

Howard