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12 Volt fuel tank sender unit
#11
I think you should be able to remove the gauge by undoing the knurled screw and washer that holds the clamp to the back of the dashboard, but disconnect the battery first in case you short a wire .
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#12
Just adding a two-pennyworth for completeness. It is my understanding that there are two types of sender unit and two types of fuel gauge - and they only work with their respective types. Maybe to do with polarity? If I have dreamed this or made it up then will someone please correct me.[Image: undecided.png]
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#13
(16-01-2018, 05:44 PM)Nick Salmon Wrote: Just adding a two-pennyworth for completeness. It is my understanding that there are two types of sender unit and two types of fuel gauge - and they only work with their respective types. Maybe to do with polarity? If I have dreamed this or made it up then will someone please correct me.[Image: undecided.png]

Thanks for both replies -- will try and remove gauge tomorrow, a la reckless.

I will send off the gauge and sender to be checked for compatibility and than all should be revealed.

Charles
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#14
(15-01-2018, 05:48 PM)Nigel was in Brittany Wrote: I will be removing my 6 volt one towards the end of the week ,I dont know if it works or not or if its the guage ,but as I am now 12 volt on my Ruby I have bought a Midget fuel guage and 12 v sender . You are welcome to mine FOC , just cover the post and packing.

Sent you a private message Nigel.

(16-01-2018, 05:58 PM)Charles Levien Wrote:
(16-01-2018, 05:44 PM)Nick Salmon Wrote: Just adding a two-pennyworth for completeness. It is my understanding that there are two types of sender unit and two types of fuel gauge - and they only work with their respective types. Maybe to do with polarity? If I have dreamed this or made it up then will someone please correct me.[Image: undecided.png]

Thanks for both replies -- will try and remove gauge tomorrow, a la reckless.

I will send off the gauge and sender to be checked for compatibility and than all should be revealed.

Charles

This may help Charles:

http://www.austin7.org/Technical%20Artic...20Working/
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#15
(16-01-2018, 06:59 PM)Matt_Harnden Wrote:
(15-01-2018, 05:48 PM)Nigel was in Brittany Wrote: I will be removing my 6 volt one towards the end of the week ,I dont know if it works or not or if its the guage ,but as I am now 12 volt on my Ruby I have bought a Midget fuel guage and 12 v sender . You are welcome to mine FOC , just cover the post and packing.

Sent you a private message Nigel.

(16-01-2018, 05:58 PM)Charles Levien Wrote:
(16-01-2018, 05:44 PM)Nick Salmon Wrote: Just adding a two-pennyworth for completeness. It is my understanding that there are two types of sender unit and two types of fuel gauge - and they only work with their respective types. Maybe to do with polarity? If I have dreamed this or made it up then will someone please correct me.[Image: undecided.png]

Thanks for both replies -- will try and remove gauge tomorrow, a la reckless.

I will send off the gauge and sender to be checked for compatibility and than all should be revealed.

Charles

This may help Charles:

http://www.austin7.org/Technical%20Artic...20Working/

Many thanks Nick. Really appreciated.

Charles
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#16
Before taking bits off and sending them off to specialists hoping they will find problems try Malcom Watts 'Finding fual gauge faults illustrated guide' on the Cornwall A7C web site first.  Easy to follow and you find out which part is at fault yourself. In my case it was a float,  that didn't!. Not a quick job to do but cheeply sorted with the home soldering iron in the warm kitchen, oh bliss.
I agree, a battery isolation switch is a 'must have' item on any Seven.
Peter
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#17
(18-01-2018, 01:17 PM)peter burton Wrote: Before taking bits off and sending them off to specialists hoping they will find problems try Malcom Watts 'Finding fual gauge faults illustrated guide' on the Cornwall A7C web site first.  Easy to follow and you find out which part is at fault yourself. In my case it was a float,  that didn't!. Not a quick job to do but cheeply sorted with the home soldering iron in the warm kitchen, oh bliss.
I agree, a battery isolation switch is a 'must have' item on any Seven.
Peter

Peter 

Where would you suggest is the best location for an isolating switch, inside the car or under the bonnet near the battery? Do you have any suggestions on the type as well.

Roger
Location:- Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire.
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#18

.jpg   batteryswitchinstallation.jpg (Size: 32 KB / Downloads: 137)


Hi Roger, I think we met at Tavernspite a couple of months back, My friend recently fitted a battery isolator that fits directly on to the battery terminal though I cant remember where he said he got it but it is probably the neatest way of doing it rather than the larger key type isolator that will require further wiring
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#19
Good selection of high quality battery isolating switches here though none like the one in Phil's photo.

http://www.gsparkplug.com/battery/isolator-switches?p=1
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#20
(19-01-2018, 12:40 AM)Jeff Taylor Wrote: Good selection of high quality battery isolating switches here though none like the one in Phil's photo.

http://www.gsparkplug.com/battery/isolator-switches?p=1

The simplest and cheapest is the one  fitted direct on to the battery terminal with the green knob (ooh! matron) as shown by Phil above. Available  from most Auto Spares here. One fitted to each of my three.

Cheers, Tony.
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