Head gasket

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Be patient, keep checking Ebay and others.

I got a low range Norbar "click" type for under £ 20, it is a nice piece of kit.

[dickie65]

We use Norbar wrenches at work we have screwdriver torque wrenchs all the way up to ones it take more weight than I have got to use.
We have a calibration unit for 1/2" bars. My 25 year old Norbar was only a bit out when we tested it.
I would never buy a second hand torque wrench as you never know if it has been left wound up for years.
A good mechanic will be able to feel if things are tight enough using the correct sized spanner and get the torque fairly even.
As far as head gaskets go I have used high temperature copper grease for years with no issues, both on iron and alloy heads.
I use blue loctite on the studs to seal them into place.
There are different torque settings for lubricated and un lubricated fasteners as well as different grades and materials.

[JonE]

Should I be turning my Norbar back to zero each time, or is it ok to leave it on 22? I thought it wasn't very high, but...

[dickie65]

Hi Jon,
Torque wrench should be reset to Zero after use otherwise the calibration will go off if the spring remains compressed for long periods.
You should wind it back to the point where its says HALT.

[Charles P]

I've got four. I check calibration with 10 litres of water and string from time to time.
One of the four is this type. What it lacks in precision it makes up for with an inability to go out of accuracy by being left wound up


  wrench.jpg (Size: 8.81 KB / Downloads: 427)

[AustinWood]

I have always just used grease and have never had any head gasket problems over many thousands of miles since the 1960s.
It is important that both the block and head surfaces are flat.
Over the years the face of the block tends to rise around the head studs, often caused by over-tightening.
The soft gaskets used by Austin tend to compress unevenly, allowing the head to bend around the studs with corresponding lifting between the studs.
I don't use a torque wrench, just a ring spanner 5" long.

[dickie65]

Austin Woods comment is very valid,
I always slightly countersink the stud holes when I replace studs.

[mopetta]

I just bought a Loctite 5990. The small text on the packing says "not recommended for head gaskets". Maybe its more related to modern gaskets...

[John Mason]

Re Austin Woods comment on the head lifting slightly around the head studs. Before refitting the head I rub around the head with a nice flat oil stone well lubricated. Then wipe clean with a petrol soaked rag. I also only use a smear of GP grease on both sides of the gasket.

John Mason.

[Steve Jones]

I just bought a Loctite 5990. The small text on the packing says "not recommended for head gaskets". Maybe its more related to modern gaskets...

I've lost count of the number of times I've answered this point.

It was first developed at the request of GM who wanted to eliminate the use of head gaskets and asked Loctite to develop an alternative. They tried but it didn't work. So, it is not recommended for use INSTEAD of a head gasket. In conjunction with one is a different matter and it's the preferred option for many in the old car world and also in the wider competition world. 

When this subject comes up it always generates a mix of supportive and negative comments. The simple answer is if you're not happy using 5990, don't. Just let the rest of us get on doing things our way.

Steve