How about a woody?

[JonE]

seats are sorted - did have cushion on the base boards but it didn't really need it. But the 2 backrests are integral and come out as one unit so you could camp in it using the entire load bay. And are also quite comfortable.
I don't think the lead, for me, would fit as utilitarian!

[Ruairidh Dunford]

A camper - love it!

Enjoy Jon.

[Ian Williams]

Good to see it nearly finished Jon, the reworking of the rear arch looks good now, seems pity that you can't keep it, you have just the right attitude for a car like this.

[Peter Clayton]

"Have you considered the seats with canvas and electric bands (like the early 2cvs had) for the front?"
I do hope you meant ELASTIC . R,

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Let me get back to you Peter...

[Steve kay]

So that explains why, after a day collecting and delivering  Seven bits using the 2CV, what little hair remains is standing on end. Unless it is the result of open motoring in October.

[Dave Wortley]

No, R means the Electric Light Orchestra.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Mr Blue Sky - love it!

[Erich]

I came across this thread today and noticed the discussion of wood. I have not read through the entire thread, so I apologize if I have repeated something already discussed. I have restored wood and canvas canoes over the years and ash is commonly used for the gunnels, thwarts, seats, decks, and stems. Sometimes oak is used for stems. Planking and ribs are either white cedar or red cedar. Most of the problems with the ash occur when the canoes are stored outside, upside down, and water can sit on the upside down decks and contaminate the stems. Standard practice for restoring is to use a good grade of marine varnish with UV protection and oil based. The other issue, is that any fastenings allow water to get in, so you have to seal those as well. Usually, things like the gunnels, are coated on the back side with a mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil, and a thinner so it soaks into the wood well. Ash is a good hard wood and bends easily without splitting. If a more rot resistant wood is needed, I might suggest Alaskan yellow cedar. It is pretty hard for a soft wood and very rot resistant. Teak was discussed but it is very heavy. Ipe is also hard and rot resistant, but difficult to work with and like teak, dulls blades quickly and is heavy.

Erich in Seattle

[andrew34ruby]

Rot might not be the main enemy. Woodworm seems to like Ash, and goes mad for the thin plywood in doors etc.