Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,104 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi All
The Brookfields has done over 50 miles and I’ve read somewhere that an oil change now is a good idea?
So I’ve just done a nine mile run to warm the oil and drained it. No nasty surprises apart from some fine black sediment around the magnet in the drain plug. The drained oil seems only mildly discoloured.
Would it be a good idea to drop the sump and gauze at this stage or leave that for the next oil change?
And when should the next change be?
I’m using straight 20W50.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
I did mine at 50 miles, 150 miles, 300 miles, 650 miles and 1000 miles, then every 1000 miles thereafter. 20W50 from the supermarket.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 226 Threads: 9
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Location: Edinburgh/Lothians
Car type: Seven Special
Hi Howard,
By 'straight' do you mean non detergent/low detergent oil? 20w/50 is a multigrade, e.g. 30 or 40 weight would be straight oil which i believe can be bought both non detergent and detergent.
Views seems to vary on breaking an engine in. Bedding in the rings is the important thing IMHO and also the cam and followers if new.
I would certainly change at 50 miles though. After that a lot depends on your approach to breaking in. However I would not advocate being 'soft' on the engine. It needs revs under moderate load to bed the rings in, avoid idling for any length of time. Well bedded in rings will avoid bore galze and help keep oil consumtion reasonable as well as aiding optimum performance.
Sorry if this sounds a bit granny & eggs, but just in case its not.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,388 Threads: 105
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Frequent oil changes during running in can do no harm and may even save the day, but for me 50 miles is a bit soon. I would normally change around 500 miles and 1000 miles. There is no need to remove the sump or to clean the gauze strainer (ever, more or less).
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 226 Threads: 9
Reputation:
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Location: Edinburgh/Lothians
Car type: Seven Special
Hi Howard,
Yes thats a multigrade with detergent. May have some zinc.
I would still change after an initial 50 miles especially if the engine has been under load and using some revs around your local hills. The rings will have smoothed out some high spots. Thereafter 250 miles. The engine should be fully broken in by 350/400 miles, less if driven enthusiastically.
Personally I would never use a running in oil. There is no need if the break in is done properly.
Good luck.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,462 Threads: 26
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Location: North Yorkshire
Based on the above I think I might be a bit obsessive but:
Never, ever, let a new engine tick over. Drive it over a variety of roads increasing the load and the revs progressively.
First change using the cheapest oil I can find, 2 miles.
After that, second change using a basic 30 oil after 30 miles.
Then straight 30 oil for 12 months.
After that, Millers Classic 20/50 changed twice a year.
It might seem a bit much but my engines don't burn oil. Oil's a lot cheaper than engines.
Steve
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
29-09-2020, 07:55 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-09-2020, 07:56 PM by Bob Culver.)
I suspect your magnet has captured all the ring and timing gear dust there is to capture. To get rid of any carbon bits and silicon blobs can pour the old oil through a filter and reuse.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
My second 1000mile change was done in the hotel underground car park in Santiago de Compostela, by torchlight. (they had lights but on a movement sensor). By the time the car had come home oil consumption was virtually nil and the oil was still clean.
.
