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What battery
#1
Hello again. After my 3rd boiled battery, I have decided to purchase a Dynamator. Due to horror stories of the Dynamators gear chewing the teeth on the gears, I will fit the original pinion to it. My question is, I need a new battery, what amp hour would be most suitable
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#2
Tayna 80 Ah are very good value delivered.
Why not sort the charging problem though, rather than introduce another potential future problem and complexity?
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#3
Hi Tatenlyle

“Do you have a sweet tooth?”  Tate and Lyle ....sugar etc...

Seriously I’ve been accused of complicating matters many times on this forum but I’m with Jon.  It should be easy to sort the cut out.  Fit a diode from the Magneto guys a very cheap cure for a malfunctioning cut out.  

There is obviously nothing wrong with the dynamo if it can fry a battery  Smile.

Cheers

Howard
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#4
Hi Tatenlyle
If you are literally using a lot of water what sort of running are you doing? If not already so, charging can easily be arranged for reduced or no and/or selected rates on all models. Many find a little more than balanced output option backed by a smart bench charger the way to go. And there are various voltage control gadgets availablefor for the standard cars and apparently work even on simple adoption of 12v but I have no experience of. All been covered recently.
I dont know if any modern batteries claim to be calcium but if so the original system unless used very carefully is especially unsuited.
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#5
(04-09-2020, 08:18 PM)Bob Culver Wrote: Hi Tatenlyle
If you are literally using a lot of water what sort of running are you doing? If not already so, charging can easily be arranged for reduced or no and/or selected rates on all models. Many find a  little more than balanced output option backed by a smart bench charger the way to go.  And there are various voltage control gadgets availablefor for the standard cars and apparently work even on simple adoption of 12v  but I have no experience of. All been covered recently.
I dont know if any modern batteries claim to be calcium but if so the original system unless used very carefully is especially unsuited.
Hi Bob, do tell us more about the "calcium" problem.
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#6
The battery does not use water, the plates buckle and won't hold a charge. It's constantly 5.8v, won't charge over 6.11, then drops back. Never enough power to start from cold. After a charge, 4 amp charger, a meter onA and D read 6v, and when revved slightly, the points closed, battery new start of year, 80ah
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#7
Traditional batteries can stand regular but not protracted recharging to 15.5 and more (for 12v) and for batteries cycled in use that is the normal recharge procedure. But sealed Ca are not supposed to exceed 14.6, to reduce gas production, difficult to acheive with the basic Seven system. hence the trend to run with low charge and rely on a smart bench charger.
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#8
Fitted one of these recently after recommendation on this forum — very happy with delivery and performance.

Tayna 80 ah
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#9
Hi Tatenlyle.
I missed your last post. A fully or near fully charged battery should show 6,3 volts or more (an hour or so after charging) Few analogue meters are sufficiently accurate for batteries. Can calibrate against a digital one. If the cells have caps, very different gassing in one cell or a hydrometer will indicate one dud cell. Assuming your meter OK certainly seems defective. If sulphated due standing with low charge it would show charging volts notably above 6.5.
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#10
In Australia early style 6 volt No 3 batteries are available to suit 6 volt VW 'Beetles" and MGs with two 6 volt batteries.
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