Cost of an engine rebuild to obtain more power unsupercharged

[Tony Betts]

Hi peter.

The blocks have the same as you got from quarry.

I had Steve flake do the machineing etc at a cost of £300 each.

Please please please note, anyone going to Steve for a block to be done. If he quote you more money. Do remember my deal with him is for SIX at a time, plus future business. ALSO ALSO ALSO if you take him your block and it's found to be cracked he should charge you for the work done up to that point.

I'd like to point this out, as there are plenty of PRATTS out there who don't understand what they are being charged for.

And Before anyone ask about the difference in price from what quarry charged,to what I'm charging. When quarry sold there recond blocks, they never made anything from the parts that were bought in from sorce by the 1000 they only added there labour.

As a trader, I have to make a profit from the parts. (Wich are all paid for in advance).

For this batch all the running around and derv has been thrown in for free. don't complain when the price goes up. I recon a realistic price for a reconditioned block with all the parts should be £1,000

Disclaimer, as the owner of 7 county Austins. I hold the right to say "tuff luck" to those to slow to realise a bargain

[Steve Jones]

Hi peter.

The blocks have the same as you got from quarry.

I had Steve flake do the machineing etc at a cost of £300 each.

Please please please note, anyone going to Steve for a block to be done. If he quote you more money. Do remember my deal with him is for SIX at a time, plus future business. ALSO ALSO ALSO if you take him your block and it's found to be cracked he should charge you for the work done up to that point.

I'd like to point this out, as there are plenty of PRATTS out there who don't understand what they are being charged for.

And Before anyone ask about the difference in price from what quarry charged,to what I'm charging. When quarry sold there recond blocks, they never made anything from the parts that were bought in from sorce by the 1000 they only added there labour.

As a trader, I have to make a profit from the parts. (Wich are all paid for in advance).

For this batch all the running around and derv has been thrown in for free. don't complain when the price goes up. I recon a realistic price for a reconditioned block with all the parts should be £1,000

Disclaimer, as the owner of 7 county Austins. I hold the right to say "tuff luck" to those to slow to realise a bargain

No issue with any of that Tony. When David and Steve Flake were selling their reconditioned blocks they were, of course,  less than the price you've quoted. I think they even had them on ebay didn't they? However, those of us that have an idea of what things really cost thought they were an absolute bargain and something not to be missed. You've explained why. Add on a few years inflation since then plus a bit of profit and you're still asking a very competitive price.  As they say, when it's gone it's gone!!

Steve

[JonE]

As this thread is going to be read by newbies, and refers to the new Practical Classics guide, I just thought I'd say that I (as an engine beginner) thought it was a very valuable publication for getting your head around engine things. Very basic questions are anticipated and answered. I'd be interested to know if others with greater knowledge respect what it conveys. Some of the articles are older and not date-quoted, but I presume their costings must be up to date.

The main thing - I noticed, merlinart, was that a couple of the engines featured in cars in that mag had exactly the same spec as mine... which had been built by a good "non-Austin 7" engineer, having read the back section of the 750 Club green book designed for extracting more out of the unit and overcoming inadequacies of splash lubrication and so on.

[Tony Betts]

Hi peter.

The blocks have the same as you got from quarry.

I had Steve flake do the machineing etc at a cost of £300 each.

Please please please note, anyone going to Steve for a block to be done. If he quote you more money. Do remember my deal with him is for SIX at a time, plus future business. ALSO ALSO ALSO if you take him your block and it's found to be cracked he should charge you for the work done up to that point.

I'd like to point this out, as there are plenty of PRATTS out there who don't understand what they are being charged for.

And Before anyone ask about the difference in price from what quarry charged,to what I'm charging. When quarry sold there recond blocks, they never made anything from the parts that were bought in from sorce by the 1000 they only added there labour.

As a trader, I have to make a profit from the parts. (Wich are all paid for in advance).

For this batch all the running around and derv has been thrown in for free. don't complain when the price goes up. I recon a realistic price for a reconditioned block with all the parts should be £1,000

Disclaimer, as the owner of 7 county Austins. I hold the right to say "tuff luck" to those to slow to realise a bargain

No issue with any of that Tony. When David and Steve Flake were selling their reconditioned blocks they were, of course,  less than the price you've quoted. I think they even had them on ebay didn't they? However, those of us that have an idea of what things really cost thought they were an absolute bargain and something not to be missed. You've explained why. Add on a few years inflation since then plus a bit of profit and you're still asking a very competitive price.  As they say, when it's gone it's gone!!

Steve

thank you Steve,

i got on extreamly well with dave flake, and it was a sad day to loose him some six years ago.
time flys by to quickly.
i think it was 4 years ago Steve flake listed them on eBay, if I remember right his price was £650 from him dirrect, or £750 on eBay to cover ebay and PayPal fees.
ive also worked my prices on last years list, which I'm updating as a lot of those prices have fell well behind other suppliers.
also the sports Pistons included are at the £180 price, as we have talked about before on the forum these will have to go up.

well as I sed, the price is likely to rise.

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi Malcolm

Any idea how much a Trials/ or perhaps a fast road camshaft might cost?
Plus do they start from your own standard camshaft?
Also any recommended supplier?

I’ve bitten the bullet and finally bought
New pistons, and a new 1 1/8” steel crank.

All the best for the New Year and IoM!

Kind regards

Bill G

[Charles P]

Hi Malcolm

Any idea how much a Trials/ or perhaps a fast road camshaft might cost?
Plus do they start from your own standard camshaft?
Also any recommended supplier?

I’ve bitten the bullet and finally bought
New pistons, and a new 1 1/8” steel crank.

All the best for the New Year and IoM!

Kind regards

Bill G

I'd go to Paul Bonewell for a cam. Roughly 100quid and yes, it's a regrind of your cam.

Charles

[Malcolm Parker]

The trials cam in my Ulster engine was done by Pigsty.  It certainly does the business with masses of low down torque but it is as noisy as hell, even with standard followers as recommended.  I am not an expert on cams but two pals who are  looked at it and both said it was quite severe and had no quietening ramps.   If I wanted another modified cam I would go to Paul Bonewell.

[Alan]

It's actually quite easy to get 30bhp from an A7 engine. All you need to do is smooth the sharp edges off the inlet ports (don't enlarge them, they are big enough already), fit a '37 head with 60 thou shaved off and get a 4 branch exhaust with a log inlet manifold and SU carb. A standard cam is quite good enough. It's the next 10hp that takes the getting.
The real skill, however is in getting them to stay in one piece, and for my money, if all you want is a quick road engine, I'd forget camshaft mods for now and spend the money getting the threads in the crankcase helicoiled and the front bearing lip replaced. Then invest in a new crank and rods and get them balanced, together with the flywheel. I know they will tell you they come balanced but I've had a lot done over the years, by a real expert, and I don't recall one that didn't need anything.

[merlinart]

It's actually quite easy to get 30bhp from an A7 engine. All you need to do is smooth the sharp edges off the inlet ports (don't enlarge them, they are big enough already), fit a '37 head with 60 thou shaved off and get a 4 branch exhaust with a log inlet manifold and SU carb. A standard cam is quite good enough.  It's the next 10hp that takes the getting.
The real skill, however is in getting them to stay in one piece, and for my money, if all you want is a quick road engine, I'd forget camshaft mods for now and spend the money getting the threads in the crankcase helicoiled and the front bearing lip replaced. Then invest in a new crank and rods and get them balanced, together with the flywheel. I know they will tell you they come balanced but I've had a lot done over the years, by a real expert, and I don't recall one that didn't need anything.

Hi Alan

Some good stuff coming out of this thread, thanks for your input. So, getting down to brass tacks, what sort of cost would you envisage here? I wouldn't feel confident doing head work, so who should I get to do it?

So, new crank/rods, you say...would you recommend new pistons, depending upon size of course. Who makes a 4 branch manifold, and likewise an inlet manifold? I assume 1&1/8" S.U.?

regards

Arthur

[Ruairidh Dunford]

You read those books quickly Arthur!