clutch thrust bearing

[steve.m]

Hi I have just joined the forum and could do with some advice. Just finished a rebuild of a 1931 ulster rep, first outing ok but now the clutch thrust bearing is squealing like a pig, any ideas. thanks.

[Reckless Rat]

There is a tube connected to the release bearing carrier which is accessible through a hole in the bell housing. This is so you can add oil to the release bearing and its associated parts, (provided the oilway isn't blocked of course). If in doubt, push a length of clear plastic pipe over the oiler and add some oil (a few drops should suffice) then check that it has gone through. That should do the trick. Engine oil.

[steve.m]

Thanks for the advice i have tried oiling the bearing through the tube but the bearing still making a noise. I am now trying to get the gearbox out , have been told i will have to take the engine out as well. If i disconnect all the necessary parts and engine bolt can i move the engine forward enough to drop the gearbox down.

[Reckless Rat]

On an Ulster rep your question depends on how the car was made and whether you can access the bellhousing bolts etc from the cabin. The gearbox on a Ruby series car can be removed from inside but earlier models require the engine and gearbox to be removed as a pair and then separated on the bench ( which personally I prefer to do rather than squirming about). I doubt you'll be able to remove the gearbox from below as the front crossmember and radius arms are in the way.

[Alan]

It’s actually not difficult to take the engine out of most Ulster Reps. Mine takes about 20 minutes but it doesn’t have wings and lamps to contend with. I’d do that rather than mess around.

[Chris KC]

Anyway unlikely I would say - not much info to go on (e.g. 3 speed or 4?)
Can't get the gearbox out of mine without the engine.

Jamie at Seven Workshop does new clutch release bearings, if that is the issue.

[steve.m]

Thanks for your help. It is a ruby chassis with a four speed box, i have removed the radius arms all the nuts around the bell housing can move gearbox back about 1/2'' not enough to come off the studs. looks as though will have to remove engine and gearbox together.

[Reckless Rat]

Before you try to put it all back together, if you are going to fit a new release bearing make sure the oilway on the bearing carrier is free. It lubricates not only the bearing itself but the sliding part of the release mechanism. Make yourself familiar with the Austin blind spline phenomenon to save more cursing on reassembly!

If you're not sure what to do or how to do it don't be afraid to ask. It's what we're here for.

[steve.m]

I have unbolted everything got a jack underneath on a trolley which can lift the engine with the radiator up, should be able to move forward enough to drop out the gearbox. my brother is going to help me tomorrow i will let you know if this is an option to taking it all out completely. Thanks.

[steve.m]

I have fitted the new thrust bearing without taking the engine out. With a trolley a scissor jack that has a plate welded on the top was positioned under the sump of the engine, a trolley jack was supporting the gearbox. With the engine bolts out the engine and gearbox was jacked up then moved forward, the gearbox was moved back supported by the trolley jack and the propshaft flange resting on the crossbeam. You can now remove the retaining clip and spring then the thrust bearing. In the workshop remove bearing and replace with new one. this can now go back in gearbox which was then moved back onto the studs then select 4th gear on box rotate propshaft flange to engage spline shaft from engine push gearbox fully on to studs and replace nuts. Push engine back into car and lower on to chassis locating engine bolts. Took about 1 1/2 hours for 2 people. If you wanted to remove gearbox completely don't forget to remove radius arms to be able to drop it out on to the floor.