Drop arm ball removal

[John Mims]

Has anybody got any tips for removing the ball from the drop arm on an RN? I need to get the drag link off because it is bent (a little bit).

I've tried to shift the ball with one of those screw-on ball joint separators that you use on modern cars, but it is proving to be very stubborn. I can't believe such a tiny taper can have so much grip. Everything is oily, so no apparent rust, and it all looks too fragile to whack (unlike a modern steering joint), or even use one of those drive-on wedge separators..

I haven't tried heat yet because it's a bit claustrophobic under there to have a flame.

Am I missing something?

John

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Shouldn't the drag link just come off the ball?   With the end cap removed, of course.

Am I not understanding the problem?

[John Mims]

Shouldn't the drag link just come off the ball?   With the end cap removed, of course.

Am I not understanding the problem?


Thanks, I did think of that approach, but from memory, it;s a horrible job getting the end cap back on the draglink against the pressure of the spring, even when doing it on the bench with a vice, never mind lying underneath the car.

[Bob Culver]

The traditional method was to force a heavay piece of metal(sledge hammer head,, axe etc) hard against one side of the metal encasing the taper and sharply strike the opposite with a moderate hammer. If one or two shots dont work do not persist.
Some use a carpenters cramp to assemble the drag link. I use two long thin threaded rods and a couple of end plates.

[Parazine]

All covered here:

http://www.ba7c.org/technicalArticles/st...gCaps.html

[Tony Press]

Shouldn't the drag link just come off the ball?   With the end cap removed, of course.

Am I not understanding the problem?


Thanks, I did think of that approach, but from memory, it;s a horrible job getting the end cap back on the draglink against the pressure of the spring, even when doing it on the bench with a vice, never mind lying underneath the car.

Sash Cramp ?

["Slack Alice" Simon]

If the ball is nice and tight I'd leave it alone.  

The drag link isn't that difficult.

Often there is some cleaning up of burred edges to be done, once dis-assembled, then practice with it clean and dry, before putting back on the car.

I can usually get it started using something with a taper, and work up to the bolt.

The sash cramp idea would make it easy.

[John Mason]

With tight tapers I use a pry bar and put it under some tension to release then strike the tapered hole with a couple of heavy sharp blows with a hammer. The shock usually jars it free. Only strike it in the thickest part and never be tempted to strike the threaded part that takes the nut. I use this method on track rod ends all the time and generally releases them without damage to the rubbers.

John Mason.

[Dave Wortley]

You don't need to remove the ball just to straighten the steering side tube. Just take the 1/4" BSF nut and bolt out of the side tube and that will disconnect the tube from the ball. To replace the bolt in the tube, use a screwdriver which will just fit through the hole in the tube, fit the rod end on the ball and you will see that the rod end and tube hole are about 5mm from being aligned. So take the flat blade end of your screwdriver and twist through 90 degrees so that both holes line up. You can then push the bolt through the hole, pushing the screwdriver out at the same time.

[Bob Culver]

I am beginning to get paranoid about more than steering arms.....