Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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ok, well all those tips worked. The talcum is a revelation.
Only issue is now all back on but inner is in a slightly out of balance location (just a tad of air in it) and the short, unsecured, rubber valve was perilously close to the wheel entry hole. I had a cunning plan of keeping it in place with a bike adaptor, which worked until I had to pump the thing up with a different pump.... and it disappeared inside.
Any cunning plans for getting the thing out without full removal again?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
If you can see the valve stem you may be able to remove the valve with a valve key. I don't know the thread but at that stage you may be able to get a set screw into the stem so that you have something with which to manoevre it. If the valve stem was slightly mispositioned circumferentially you will usually find that moving the tyre round the rim also moves the tube enough for things to line up properly. You do need luck on your side! If it does not work you are back to plan A I think.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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Thanks! - I now await 2 valve keys (2.49 posted) entering my life...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
If the valve stem had dropped into the well the only way to retrieve it is to lever off the tyre bead to get your hand in. Get your knee on the tyre 180° from the valve and push the bead right into the well then get a tyre lever and prise the bead over the rim near the valve. Work about 6" or so off so you can get your hand in and work the valve stem back through the rim, and then make sure you hang on to it when you work the bead back over. Some metal dust caps have an adaptor for valve removal, but normally there should be a thin nut to screw on to the valve to locate it on the rim and to stop it going back through the hole. You'll need at least 1/2" of thread avalable to get an air line onto it to reinflate - good luck.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,462 Threads: 26
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Location: North Yorkshire
If you can see the valve, pointy nose pliers should retrieve it. Once it's out, stop it disappearing again with a valve nut. Lesson for the future, always fit a nut when you first get the valve through the hole! If you can't see the valve then follow Bruce's advice.
Steve
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 19 Threads: 0
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Location: Hampshire, UK
Car type: 1931 RM Saloon; 1936 Special
If the tube does not have too much air in it, you may be able to turn the wheel inside the tyre?
Lay the wheel down flat on the floor, wedge in a corner to grip the tyre and try to move the wheel within it.
(Tap the beads towards the well with rubber mallet)
Worth a try?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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thanks all. 15" tubes for cast wheels - all rubber so no way of securing... unless I screwed on an extension I suppose.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
In that case, get the valve through the hole in the rim and then hold it with a pair of molegrips ( not on the threaded part) until you've got some air into it.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 985 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
Alternatively just attach the hose from the pump instead of the mole grips.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,978 Threads: 90
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Location: Ripon
My valve stems are threaded all the way down. Rather than risk a molegrip I fit one of the supplied hex or knurled round retaining nuts, just a few turns so you can still jiggle it about till ready
