Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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Car type:
ok, great - a few changes to be made, thankyou! I guess walking away from the tyre at the "last 12" stage" is probably also a good idea, for a fresh attack at the hardest part.
I was wondering if these last ones (putting some rough old tyres onto two 17" rims for round-workshop use) were also due to very hard sidewalls.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,018 Threads: 53
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Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
Don't use levers to put tyres on.
Use lubricant.
A bit of air in the tube.
Finish at the valve.
As well as your feet, use a 2 foot length of timber 2" x 2" and a very large hammer. Nudging with a heavy hammer is better that hitting hard with a little hammer.
When you get to the last few inches near the valve, make sure the bead of the tyre, opposite the valve, is in the well of the rim. Not in place at the edge of the rim.
Two years ago I punctured a tyre putting it on with levers. Then had advice on this wonderful forum and went on to fit 5 tyres with ease.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 189 Threads: 8
Reputation:
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Location: East Yorkshire
Car type: Ruby sports trial special .
Two tips on tyre fitting put a bit of
air in tube to give it some shape helps
to Stops tube being nipped, the other is
to warm the tyres it makes them more
pliable to get on rims
My problem I ask questions that other people don't like?
Like have you got that for an investment or for fun?
Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 39 Threads: 9
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Location: QLD Australia
Car type: Austin 7 1936 tourer
Rubber mallet is definitely the way to go. I’ve used one for years on moderns with or without tubes as well as my almost completed 1936 A7 tourer. Never a problem. A little air in the tube is also a good idea.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Old thick walled hard tyres can be very difficult. The modern advice is to scrap but many cars ran on for decades. Having got the remote side of the tyre seated in the base of the well it is necessary to maintain some tension to keep it there. With hard old tyres very difficult. Can use a few G clamps to hold the beads close together. Fitting from the back makes any chipping of the rim less obvious. Laying the wheel on a modern tyre helps protects the cap, paint etc. I used to use rubber grease, but it lifts any old style patches.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,462 Threads: 26
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Location: North Yorkshire
Fair enough, Tim, take your point but I've used Waxoyl for this for a lot of years and never found that a problem. The amount of salt in washing up liquid is much more of a concern but each to his own I suppose.
Steve
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 59 Threads: 4
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My prefered lubricant is a quick squirt of 'MR SHEEN' furniture polish. It is very easy to get it exactly where you want it, and does not make a mess. Been useing it for years without any apparent ill effects, but perhaps some of you with chemical knowledge can let us know if it contains anything harmfull to rubber?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 882 Threads: 48
Reputation:
4
Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
It contains Silicon. My wife used it on the widow sills in our cottage. When I tried to re-varnish them, the varnish reacted with the silicon, forming "bubbles".
Not that you'd want to paint your tyres...
I don't think it injures the rubber.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 620 Threads: 7
Reputation:
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Location: queensland
No help to Jon but may be of interest.
A friend was fitting new old stock beaded edge tyres to my 1910 Maxwell, they appeared to have shrunk and were a tight fit. We got over the problem by placing a 16" austin 7 wheel with tyre in the centre against the beads and inflating it to stretch the beads. Was left for a couple of days and much easier to fit after.
