Joined: Apr 2019 Posts: 247 Threads: 13
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Location: Toronto
Car type: 1930 Boat tail tourer
This is sort of a He shed/ She shed story. SWMBO has decided that she wants half of the shed to be hers for a potting shed. The goodish news in this is that I can finally justify making the shelves I should have had all along. A significant portion of the contents of the shed is the Austin 7. I have put both engines on dollies and can roll them under the shelf. However, all would fit so much better if I could remove the crank and the gear lever.
I presume the gear lever is just a matter of the 4 nuts holding the top of the panel on the transmission? Are there any springs that will sproing if I open it or is there anything else I need to know?
Similarly, is there a way to remove the crank from the front end?
thanks all
JP
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,987 Threads: 90
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Location: Ripon
I'd suggest separate sheds to help with the storage....and avoid cross fertilisation!
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 697 Threads: 33
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Location: Lot region FRANCE
Mezzanine ?? No problem removing the nosepiece or gearbox cover. Make a hardboard blanking plate for the gearbox to stop all the compost dropping into the gearbox.
When I found our Box saloon, it looked like someone had used the inside as a shed - so be warned !!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 272 Threads: 18
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Location: Deepest Norfolk
Removal of the crank handle is self-evident - remove the cotter and pull it off. Removing the nose-piece involves first pulling off the fan pulley which can be tricky, especially if you do not have a suitable puller. It is then usually necessary to remove the dynamo housing, although I have on occaision been able to remove the two front screws/studs and leave the housing in position.
Once this is done, removing the five screws will release the nose piece - but beware of the trapped oil!
Rick
In deepest Norfolk
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 935 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
When removing the starting handle cotter be sure to support the boss of the crank handle. It is very easy to break the nosepiece if this is not done.
Joined: Apr 2019 Posts: 247 Threads: 13
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Location: Toronto
Car type: 1930 Boat tail tourer
thanks all for this advice - will report back!
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
25-06-2020, 01:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-06-2020, 01:58 PM by Colin Wilks.)
The fan belt pulley can be very stuck on. Pulling or levering will probably break it. If you want to remove the fan belt pulley, undo its nut, jam the pulley with a piece of wood through its holes. Turn the starting handle, which will release the fanbelt pulley which has no keyway and is just aninterference fit on the camshaft taper.
To release the starting handle, prevent the engine from turning by jamming the flywheel, remove the cotter bolt from the starting handle and turn the handle. This will rotate on its shaft and come loose. As others have said, be sure to support the handle as you drift the cotter bolt out.
Joined: Apr 2019 Posts: 247 Threads: 13
Reputation:
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Location: Toronto
Car type: 1930 Boat tail tourer
quick update - got the gear lever off and made a nice cover for the gearbox. The crank is actually on the second engine so slightly out of reach until maybe tomorrow - weather permitting.