Car Trimming - a DIY approach

[JohnD]

I have so far managed to tackle all jobs on the car, mechanical, Electrical and Paint, but i have never had a stab at trimming. The other day a vintage industrial Singer turned up for £75 so ive taken the plunge and now look to give it a try. 

 Im looking for anyone who has advice, hints tips or links to books, videos etc for a total novice

[dannyteal1990]

Watching this thread with interest as I am in exactly the same position. I have a special so just a bench and two bottoms to make and would really like to have a go at it myself  What could go wrong....

[Hentzant]

    I am in the middle of re-upholstering my RP saloon.This is a big job and requires A fair bit of patience.I also bought and industrial singer machine and have spent a good amount of time practicing before starting to cut material.I had all the original trim and have been able to use this To mark out replacement pieces.i have bought 8 metres of red vinyl and think it’s going to be enough to do the whole car.This is readily available from suppliers on eBay .I covered all door and side panels with 1/4 “ foam glued to the ply before covering with vinyl don’t glue the vinyl to the foam attach it at the back of the panel with staples or glue .i use utube for advice on sewing up covers etc.Good luck
Moi

---

It JThis is the drivers door panel as a work in progress.Its made up of 6pieces of trim .The door pocket is quite difficult to make as it’s gathered using elastic at the top. We je
  4407B1A4-DA3F-4F7B-95AD-BF976642EE74.jpeg (Size: 79 KB / Downloads: 472)

[Ian Williams]

My advice to anyone wanting to retrim their car and have it look right is to use the original materials where ever possible, if you analyse how the factory made what you are attempting to replicate and copy you will not go far wrong. Avoid modern methods and materials like foam, particularly in seat pleats, otherwise you will end up with an interior that looks like it has come out of the 60's or 70's not the 20's or 30's.

[Douglas Alderson]

If you have an industrial sewing machine it helps to slow the machine down it make it a lot easier to control. This can be done by changing the pulley or fitting a servo motor.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I am in the middle of re-upholstering my RP saloon.This is a big job and requires A fair bit of patience.I also bought and industrial singer machine and have spent a good amount of time practicing before starting to cut material.I had all the original trim and have been able to use this To mark out replacement pieces.i have bought 8 metres of red vinyl and think it’s going to be enough to do the whole car.This is readily available from suppliers on eBay .I covered all door and side panels with 1/4 “ foam glued to the ply before covering with vinyl don’t glue the vinyl to the foam attach it at the back of the panel with staples or glue .i use utube for advice on sewing up covers etc.Good luck
Moi

---

It JThis is the drivers door panel as a work in progress.Its made up of 6pieces of trim .The door pocket is quite difficult to make as it’s gathered using elastic at the top. We je

Very nice work Hentzant, please keep us posted on progress!

John - I have found these books really useful over the years, they are mainly "newer" classic based but the techniques used are useful.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Interio...185010932X

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-Upho...ooghydr-21

A walking foot attachment on the machine is also very useful.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Practice, common sense, a slow machine, a piping foot.

There must be plenty of help on You Tube these days, I was self taught.


Get some spare fabric of around the same weight, and practice, find out how the top and bottom thread tensions affect the stitch.

Then look at how adjusting the pressure on the foot/feet affects the work's progress, and is the driving dog - the bit that actually doing the moving of the fabric - set at the right height.

Keep the right bits oiled.

Let the machine do the driving.   If you start pulling, rather than guiding, you will break needles.   Talking of which, look up needles and make sure you are using the right ones, and have a box of spares.

Having got to know the machine a bit, practice with 4 or 6 thicknesses - do you need to adjust things for the best results?

Then practice a few piped corners - if you can do those, you are ready to go.   (Some piping cords are easier to work with than others.)

Soft pencil or tailor's chalk lines to follow if you want it straight on the flute lines in the seats.  (if you do it that way, which purists don't......)

[JohnD]

Thank you for all the replys, i will search out some old fabric etc and set to work

[Peter Johnson]

I purchased a Brother machine to do the upholstery in the saloon and then various other jobs including leather upholstery for two frazer nashes and my cup model.

A few things that I picked up
1. Even for vinyl, I use leather needles that “punch” the material.
2. Leather is difficult as it always wants to slip over when it is face-to-face. Get a machine with a walking foot if you can.
3. Get a servo drive. The brother always ran too fast and the clutch was unmanageable - but the servo motor transforms it as the speed it infinitely controllable.

Peter

[royjackson]

Well done I will be in the same boat in the not to distant future.