Hi Guys ,I have just purchased a block and tackle to put my engine back into my Nippy. The block also came with a separate double hook chain for lifting from the studs when brackets are used.( I have stud lifting brackets also) My question to those who have used a block and tackle,should I lift the engine and gearbox with the stud brackets and double chain thing, or bind the engine with thick grab bag staps. If I use the strap method I can probably get the angle for the engine to go into position just a matter of weight distribution. What is the best and safest way?
Regards RPM
I have modified 2 spark plugs by welding lifting eyes on and use a spreader bar with filed notches and shackles to change the weight distribution/angle. One benefit of this approach is that you can use it to help remove the head if needed. Let me know if you need pictures.
I have used ratchet straps wrapped round the engine and box too, but it’s trickier to get the balance point.
Thanks, Alan, sounds great idea solid too. I don't have a welder and hoping to complete the job on Sunday and also at work the next two days. I would like a picture to make up some for the future if poss.
Regards Rob ps I'm doing this job alone in a lock up garage. No Fun !
Fitting an engine into a Nippy is no easy task alone, the deep sump and lack of bulkhead clearance around the flywheel makes it extremely tight, I would suggest that you might be sensible to arrange an assistant. I have done it with a gearbox attached but find it easier to strap the gearbox as far back in the car as possible, get the engine in place on the rails, then bolt the box onto the back of the engine before you finally bolt everything down hard. Just gives you a little more wriggle room and saves lots of cursing I find.....well still some cursing but less!
Here are two engine eyes that I made without welding. They are made from commercially available 8mm eyebolts fitted to 14mm sparkplug bodies which are screwed into two 14mm/18mm plug adapters. They only difficult bit was, having removed the insulators, having to drill the remains of the bodies to a clearance 8mm.
It took more time to rummage through several boxes to assemble the bits than to make them!
Hi RPM,
I've always managed to hand lift the engine and gearbox complete in and out of my Nippy on my own. This avoids the hassle of trying to line up the splines on the gearbox when you've not got quite enough hands.
I also find it easier to take off the deep finned Nippy sump and fit a standard "tin tray" one with a couple of bolts to protect the bottom face of the crank case to give you better clearance. It also helps to take off the gearbox top too for the same reason.
Hope that helps a bit?
Best wishes,
Nick
13-06-2020, 10:38 AM (This post was last modified: 13-06-2020, 10:39 AM by Reckless Rat.)
The spark plug method which I have been using for over 30 years works fine - I use n°3 spark plug hole which when removing engine and gearbox together allows me to tilt the unit enough to clear the flywheel/ bulkhead and lift the sump over the chains nose. I did once try a block and tackle, which once I'd got the unit out and before I'd put it on the bench, the brake failed. The engine dropped to the floor breaking the nose cone and flattening the sump. (I was not a happy bunny!)
I now use a 250kg SWL electric overhead winch. Easy.
If you're just putting the engine back, don't forget to align the blind spline so the gearbox will mate back up properly. Ask me how I now remember that.
