HEAD STUD EXTRACTOR.

[Rpm]

Thanks, everyone, I need you around at my place, good info just what I needed, so will get an extractor looking at above info and let you know how I get on in due course.
Rob

[Austin in the Shed]

Heat. Plus gas and tapping the top of the stud before the stud extractor. I did a block which looked like it came out of the Mary Rose and all came out, But I considered myself lucky....
I would use the cylinder head as a guide to drill out a broken stud, maybe with a tube to use a smaller drill first.
I'd leave them alone unless absolutely necessary.

[Steve Jones]

The set I've used for a long time is a Sealey AK724. Contains 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 7/16" extractors. Each also available individually. Coupled with heat at the base of the stud, pretty much works every time.

steve

[Hugh Barnes]

And to highlight the comment about Plus Gas. WD40 is not suitable, Plus Gas is the thing...

And like Steve, I have a similar set of stud extractors, though made by Sykes Pickavant. I snapped them up on Ebay some years back. Proper stud extractors that 'envelop' the entire stud are really the way to go if poss...

[Charles P]

The set I've used for a long time is a Sealey AK724. Contains 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 7/16" extractors. Each also available individually. Coupled with heat at the base of the stud, pretty much works every time.

steve

Agreed.
I find that using oxy/acetylene and getting a lot of localised heat in quickly works much better than fanning it with a DIY butane torch.

c

[John Mason]

With regards to drilling out broken studs I got a couple of inserts made (Not my idea it is from the Doug Woodrow Austin Seven Manual) by a local machine shop. They make it very easy to line up your drill on the centre of the broken bolt. They fit inside the stud hole in the head when it is replaced on the remains studs. On another point if you are new to Sevens investment in the Woodrow book in my opinion is a good investment as it covers most mechanical and electric parts of seven cars. Can I add I have nothing to do with this publication nor do I receive anything for recommending its purchase.

John Mason

[Zetomagneto]

If using the head as a guide, bear in mind there is a fair bit of slop so you need to locate the head to the block.I use a couple of turned down capheads, turned down so that they are the same OD as the ID
in the cyl head, obviously you need to get a couple of studs out to start with.
RPM those studs have not been out in a very long time some breakages are inevitable.
I would much favour stepped studs over Helicoils . To use Helicoils you end up with  3/8 hole so you might as well use a stepped stud, stronger and cheaper.

[Steve Jones]

The set I've used for a long time is a Sealey AK724. Contains 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 7/16" extractors. Each also available individually. Coupled with heat at the base of the stud, pretty much works every time.

steve

Agreed.
I find that using oxy/acetylene and getting a lot of localised heat in quickly works much better than fanning it with a DIY butane torch.

c

Agree, oxy/acetylene rather than a butane torch. The block for my new Ulster engine had studs in a worse condition than those in the original posts and all came out without breakages, manifold studs as well. If you do break a stud, the drill guides as detailed in Woodrow work very well when used with the cylinder head. Simple to make if you have a lathe or know someone who does.

Steve

[Rpm]

Great info on the make of stud extractors also tips and hints suggested. given me more confidence to tackle these jobs having you guys around.
RPM

[John Mason]

I agree that oxy/acetylene is best but you have to use what you have got. I use butane as that is all I have got and always managed to get things out eventually perhaps taking a little longer. One trick I use is to heat things up then quickly cool by dousing in cold water the shock of quick expansion then contraction breaks the carbon rust and other things that make then stick fast.

John Mason.