29-04-2020, 08:04 AM
"Still intrigued by the hydraulic options though, when one has a hydraulic system to plumb into...."
Yes of course, simpler!
Yes of course, simpler!
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RESTORING a 50s Seven 750 SPECIAL
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29-04-2020, 08:04 AM
"Still intrigued by the hydraulic options though, when one has a hydraulic system to plumb into...."
Yes of course, simpler!
29-04-2020, 08:37 AM
I'm not convinced that a hydraulic handbrake complies with the regulations for a road vehicle as hydraulic systems can creep. Fine for hill starts, no good for parking. You may not be worried about that?
29-04-2020, 09:31 AM
I believe the handbrake aka the emergency brake, has to be a completely separate system.
29-04-2020, 09:34 AM
An hydraulic handbrake is allowable on a car registered before, I think, 1968. However you are required to have two separate braking systems. You can’t just use the existing hydraulics with another application method.
Alan Fairless
29-04-2020, 10:19 AM
I think your Speedex will be a great asset to you and I will pay close attention to the work you decide to carry out on her, I am at the chassis stage myself at the moment and not really sure which body style to choose suffice to say the speeex always looked quick even when at a standstill ?
Regards Martin
29-04-2020, 05:46 PM
(29-04-2020, 09:34 AM)Alan Wrote: An hydraulic handbrake is allowable on a car registered before, I think, 1968. However you are required to have two separate braking systems. You can’t just use the existing hydraulics with another application method.ok, thanks all - so that rules that one out then, when there are perfectly good mechanical mechanisms on the back plates. Perhaps nice short Speedy cables are the way forward... unless anyone knows of a middle way... I think it makes sense that the cross shaft comes out for use elsewhere and to get the hardy-spicer prop in. p.s. anyone got a 4 hole pinion flange not doing anything?
08-05-2020, 07:26 PM
Just contemplating cylinder heads and the need for Speedex to (efficiently) exit towards the rear of the car for the header.
I'm actually quite happy with a steel 37 head otherwise. But a comment was intriguing: "one of the interesting things I've seen regarding cylinder heads is using the core-plug holes and feeding a pipe up from one or two (or more) vertically on to a 'horizontal' pipe that can face/drain forwards or backwards depending on your needs". Has anyone done or experienced such that they would see as a good means of converting a steel head? I realise the core plug holes are smaller than the standard water outlet, but playing with my new electric water pump I see that that will be the smallest bore on the whole system.
09-05-2020, 02:18 PM
20200508_214311.jpg (Size: 161.14 KB / Downloads: 228) 20200509_141118.jpg (Size: 233 KB / Downloads: 228) Well Jon. If you are feeling adventurous, the LRM head shows the way, with three sets of elongated studs and some bespoke water branches. The second photo from a recent Facebook post shows a similar approach... just needs a little bravery with your dremel?
09-05-2020, 02:28 PM
The former explains something from Dave Armstrong's SIE document - one of the cars with posh chrome outlets from the three, on an LRM.
That is very good to see that second image. I must admit I think that it still has just as much, if not more, hardware than associated with just using the HC head outlet, though I realise its more efficient! As mine isn't going to be a high stress engine I'll wait. I have too many potential bravery projects you have already tempted me with...
09-05-2020, 10:03 PM
Have you noticed how the head nuts pulled into the soft LRM head. Alta's I've seen do the same.
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