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Steering column wedge - problems with the sterring arm going over...
#11
In the past I've welded two cut down tubes with a 3" scarf join to the required length. If I was to need another I'd nowadays make new.
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#12
Thanks Henry

Howard
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#13
I'm following this with interest, as I have exactly the same problem as Ruairidh. Lengthening the draglink looked like the best solution. I was considering cutting and sleeving it, perhaps internally and externally, to add another inch.
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#14
With a Canbridge wedge I didn't have an over the top problem until I cut off some of the lumps on the track rod arms - which are the stops.

So, if you have an OTT problem, can you not just add a little to these lumps?

My wedge has a vertical strip welded to it, drilled for a bolt to go through the original brake pivot hole in the chassis (you need a big washer too, it is a big hole), which gives you back the three pont mounting.
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#15
You can add metal to the lumps ( stops ).

But then you will have a 3 mile turning radius.

When I built my first ulster rep, I used an ALR wedge. It was so long ago i bought if of Alan himself at a show.

I cut as far as I could into the rubber mounted foot on the engine, and mounted the wedge as far forward as I could, it worked fine on a standard draglink.

Tony.
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#16
(25-04-2020, 03:11 PM)Tony Betts Wrote: You can add metal to the lumps ( stops ).

But then you will have a 3 mile turning radius....
What does it mean in detail? What are lumps and where are they located? I need a small correction of turning radius because the front brake cables touch the tires (4,50-4,75 16") a little bit in endposition.
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#17
The 'lumps' (or lock stops) on the track rod arms.  Reference numbers BM 91 and BM 92.....

   
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#18
Thank you Henry for that explanation!
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#19
For both of my specials I bought replacement castings made to a reduced angle. They seem to work without problems and it's an easy fix for the centre position of the brake pedal. Perhaps not the cheapest solution but effective...
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