The following warnings occurred:
Warning [2] Undefined variable $search_thread - Line: 60 - File: showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code PHP 8.1.30 (Linux)
File Line Function
/inc/class_error.php 153 errorHandler->error
/showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code 60 errorHandler->error_callback
/showthread.php 1617 eval




Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
REMOTE OIL FILTER. nippy engine bay
#1
Hi all, I hope you're all well and safe. Just a quick couple of questions. I'm going to remove the engine and gearbox from my 7 early next week to sort my clutch and generally clean the engine and engine compartment and whilst there was thinking of connecting a remote filter. Do I need to enlarge the threads for the connections front and back of engine ? also who stocks remote filters? the engine has done 5k miles.
Regards RPM
Reply
#2
If you fit an oil filter without plugging the main oil gallery at the rear end then the filter will not do a great deal, the majority of the oil will flow straight down the gallery bypassing the filter completely. If you go for a full flow filter and connect it where the oil pressure gauge pipe normally connects then you do need to enlarge the hole or you will have insufficient flow.
Black Art Enthusiast
Reply
#3
Hi rpm, you would need to strip the engine down to some extent to do this, reason being that you need to tap the gallery thats coverd by the flywheel deeper and plug it just beyond the hole for the oil pressure gauge hole.
Tapping the gallery will introduce a lot of swarf into the gallery, you would need to be certain to get it all out.
Filter is a good idea on new built engine, particularly if you have shell bearing big ends.
Reply
#4
Thank You both Ian and Zeto, Given that info, I'm going to leave well alone and continue using straight oil.
Regards Rob
Reply
#5
RPM, Hi, I have no oil filter fitted to my 1935 Mk1 Ruby engine and I use reasonable quality (Known brands) of multi grade oil 10/40 or 20/50. I do however change the oil regularly and work on the assumption that new clean oil is better than filtered oil. Oil is relatively cheap compared to an engine rebuild and is a lot easier and quicker to do.

John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Reply
#6
That's a good point John and worth consideration. How many miles have you travelled on a multigrade oil? with I assume no problems to date.
RPM
Reply
#7
I use supermarket sources 20W/50 in my RP and change the oil every 1000miles.
Reply
#8
Good quality 10/40 changed every 2500 miles. My car is a standard RP saloon.
Reply
#9
RPM, In answer to your question how many miles. I don’t know but I have been using it for the last 20 years without problem. I don’t know what oil you use but if it is not a detergent type like all the modern multigrades then you need to flush your engine oil ways out before you use it otherwise the detergent in your new oil will remove all the old sludge and block your oil jets etc. If the oil you use is a detergent oil if it is there will be no problems going to multigrade

John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Reply
#10
Sounds encouraging, I will drop the sump plate and take a good look inside for sludge build-up plus give it good clean before switching to multigrade 10/40.
Hoping it shouldn't be too bad after only 5k miles.
my old Healey runs on 20/60 from Penrite and that oil comes out looking the same as it went in.
Thank you, everyone.
Rob
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 4 Guest(s)