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Big end damage
#1
Hello, progress on the restoration of my 1937 “Two seater” (Opal) is slow, I am in two minds whether the body is in too bad a state for me to rescue, there is a lot of work to do and unfortunately my skills don’t stretch to welding and bodywork.

However, I have decided during this lockdown period to make some progress with the engine restoration and I am currently cleaning everything up ready for reassembly, everything was stripped down several weeks ago and I thought that I’d inspected everything for damage on disassembly but today I found this:

[Image: Big-end-bearing-failure.jpg]

As a relative beginner with Austin sevens I’m just wondering what my options are, I guess I’m looking for a replacement con rod? The journal which this rod runs on measures 1.309” so standard with a few thou of wear. If it’s the right way to go any ideas where to look for a suitable replacement would be appreciated.

Many thanks, hope you are all keeping well!  ….. Phil.
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#2
(19-04-2020, 04:02 PM)PhilM Wrote: Hello, progress on the restoration of my 1937 “Two seater” (Opal) is slow, I am in two minds whether the body is in too bad a state for me to rescue, there is a lot of work to do and unfortunately my skills don’t stretch to welding and bodywork.

However, I have decided during this lockdown period to make some progress with the engine restoration and I am currently cleaning everything up ready for reassembly, everything was stripped down several weeks ago and I thought that I’d inspected everything for damage on disassembly but today I found this:

[Image: Big-end-bearing-failure.jpg]
As a relative beginner with Austin sevens I’m just wondering what my options are, I guess I’m looking for a replacement con rod? The journal which this rod runs on measures 1.309” so standard with a few thou of wear. If it’s the right way to go any ideas where to look for a suitable replacement would be appreciated.

Many thanks, hope you are all keeping well!  ….. Phil.


I'd be concerned by the three deep grooves that appear to be cut into the rod. 
Do the others have this type of marking?


c
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#3
Hello Charles, thanks for your reply.
Yes, unfortunately at some time in the past some bright spark has marked all of the conrods by the look of it with a hacksaw.
I realise that this has caused a potential weak spot but I wasn't sure if they were usable or not.
Maybe I'll be looking for a complete set of conrods?

..... Philm
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#4
(19-04-2020, 04:42 PM)PhilM Wrote: Hello Charles, thanks for your reply.
Yes, unfortunately at some time in the past some bright spark has marked all of the conrods by the look of it with a hacksaw.
I realise that this has caused a potential weak spot but I wasn't sure if they were usable or not.
Maybe I'll be looking for a complete set of conrods?

..... 


I wouldn't use them, but I bet someone comes along with an alternative view.

Charles
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#5
PM sent

Colin
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#6
I wouldn't use them for the reasons stated by Charles.
Given the size of the crankpins, and assuming there is nominal ovality ot taper there will be 
plenty of rods below that size that could be remachined to match your crank.
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#7
For what it is worth my Ruby had con rods marked with deep file marks similar to Philm and I used it like that for 20 years as until I stripped it down I was unaware. I had no problems at all and drove around in ignorant bliss. I only discovered the marks when I changed the crank to a Phoenix with matched re metalled rods.

John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
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#8
Phil
For what it is worth I would suggest throwing away those rods.
My view is that they probably would be OK but why take the risk ?
You do need to have them all re-metalled as the metalling has not been done very well.
Secondhand rods are available and not too expensive. Personally I would have "new to you" rods re-metalled.
Finding a good service to re-metal your newly acquired rods is a challenge, I have a good one I could recommend if you email me.
The only problem with him is that he has a 6 month waiting list, having said that he always delivers on time.
It would be a shame not to rebuild your body, from what you say it sounds like you need to find some professional help.
With the Opal it is usually the floor that has had it.
It is a big job to do and if not done well will mess the car up for all-time. Stabilising the front part to the back before removing the body is the key. I have recently seen one recently that someone had done a ton of work on and they did not seem to realise it but the body repairer had managed to get the whole thing twisted. Completely ruined for all time!
I would suggest that you talk to experienced Austineers in your local club to get advice before you start and get referrals to reliable fair priced help.
It can all be done but you will need help.

Good luck and enjoy the process, its great fun.
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#9
Phil
I see that you're in Canterbury. I concur with Nick's advice about joining a local club. The Austinsevenownersclub.co.uk/membership are active in East Kent and I'm sure they will give you a warm welcome and advice even in the current lockdown
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#10
Phil are we talking two or three bearing?
J
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