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RESTORING a 50s Seven 750 SPECIAL
#1
With the success of Ian’s thread, I'm starting similar but dedicated to getting help with restoration/conservation of something which is 7 underpinned, but with a 50’s body. 

I’ve taken on a project for the garage here as my Woodie is isolated at my mum’s. I may have to sell that if work doesn’t pick up after we as a nation - and it - are back on the road. So the idea is to conceive a cheap runabout without destroying anything significant - and to return its 50's character and heritage.

I can however see it is the basis of a former race car vision - Speedex 750 body... but with full undertray up to the reconstructed front crossmember, and a tiny fuel tank. From Dave Armstrong's (and formerly Ian Clayton’s) excellent work, there are probably about 40 survivors presently known out of perhaps 150-200 bodies created from late 1957. It is a very pure shape which is easy to lose with later amendments and accessories.

I’m being systematic about assessing whether its historically significant. i.e. was it done when the frame was made in 58-62, or added on to the frame after purchase. All I can gauge is that the project was bought in 68 by last owner, and he has gradually got it together. But perhaps it was an unfinished project in the first place, as the aluminium inside the undertray looks so undisturbed. No decent engine - just a nice useable HC/SU’d two bearing unit from the RN the owner has had since 1960. Last taxed '72. and being renovated off and on since then.

But there are lots of questions - how would you get a rear spring out, or even jack up such a thing, when the undertray and the associated/additional tubular structure means that you can't lift a body off? I am starting to wonder whether, if parts have no Speedex heritage value, would it be better removing the lower part so one can get ‘in’ for its likely future use as a road car - i.e. even lighter. I’ll be grateful for your diverse thoughts as part of my overarching strategy on what to do.

I’m busy ripping out all in the recent glued-in carpets to access the tunnel (screwed) and floor (not quite sure), but it's all rivets underneath…

Present plan is to:
strip front wings to same aluminium as rear. (There is a slight historic precedent for retaining the front wings and lights as they were also used on the Lotus Seven S1.. as well as being original for the 750)
Ditch heavy-looking rear cover but find a good way of making a waterproof seal to the rear space access underneath 
Bonnet to return to body colour
construct an egg crate grille  - an essentially visual part of the 750 original equipment which isn’t easy or cheap to recreate without thought.
Black and white vinyl registration plates direct to body
find somewhere for a spare wheel
find some way of getting front and rear rame hoops sprouting from the roll cage to carry a proper hood in winter months… which could perhaps come back over the entire tail or end abruptly with a plexiglass panel within the roll cage. 
consider whether the fuel tank is viable long term. i.e. I carry two more petrol cans with the perhaps 2 gallons it might hold? 
Consider the undertray with respect of gaining access i.e. for replacing a duff rear spring.
Put dashboard appearance back 15 years from present 70s feel.
I’m not concerned with the engine - if I can keep the car light and concentrate on MPG then it will be a useable reliable car with many of the mods which are being carried with Sevens; i.e. hydraulic brakes, Bowden front axle. I'm warned that the thermosiphon effect on a low rad might not be good without an external pump, which this has not presently got. 
? Battery position, whilst nicely made, not good for long cable runs. Could it conceivably be put further up toward engine, under dash or something?

So, a thread to keep to the title area, but I’ll be interested to know what you would or wouldn’t do! I see it as being heavily time consuming to get right but without a great deal of expense. And I’ll keep progress going over time. 
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#2
A great 'fun' car Jon and I imagine light enough to go fairly fast without a lot of tuning.

First thing I'd do is get front and rear wheels matching - I don't much mind which.

Didn't Speedex use a low cross-flow radiator? I should have thought a pump was essential.
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#3
If it was me I'd paint the wings and bonnet and run it. Battery in the back,no problem.Lack of a water pump with a low cross flow probably will be and would be easier to fit an electric one if you are not bothered about originality.
Run it on the road and enjoy it, or at least find its faults while we have some good weather. I wouldn't bother mounting a spare just put a can of tyre sealer in with the tools.
Are you going to need more than 2 gallons of fuel on a run out ?
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#4
I agree. Lovely car though.
Alan Fairless
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#5
That fuel tank looks like a Lambretta silencer box!
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#6
OK. That is a first important thing for use, thankyou. Any recommendations on water pump and where to put such a thing? Its 6V. Can one do the thermostat mod if one runs an electric water pump?

I don't forsee using it in lockdown as its hilly from here and I can't risk breaking down and involving others. Will buy some sealant and pack tyre levers and tube. So will get on with understanding how its all put together and strip the front wings back in case there is an earlier colour underneath.
Chris - its got to reasonably go to Speedex wheels, hasn't it? Just need to find two gradually. (Heavily discounted easter egg sent to anyone who comes up with a lead...)
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#7
There is a lot of merit in just getting it running so that you can use it a bit; you may find other things needing attention which don't show while it is static. I am a great believer in 12 volt electrics for easy starting and happy night time motoring. With a decent 12v motorcycle battery at the back volt drop won't be an issue, and it will need less space than the 6v. You will have to change lamps, possibly horn and coil. As for a spare wheel I find that good tyres are fairly puncture proof. We have done many long touring trips without the spare in our Ulsteroid; we needed the wheel space for a few spare clothes and waterproofs. We did carry an aerosol puncture repairer but have not needed it in thousands of miles. You mentioned an RN type engine, but do you mean 3-speed or 4-speed?
Robert Leigh
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#8
Hi Jon,
I used to have a Speedex special till about 10 years ago.
It was fitted with a crossflow Serck radiator which was the same as on an Ashley Special I had in the 1970's
You will need a header tank at the hihest point under the bonnet if you fit a crossflow rad again.
Small Ford spares listed a waterpump which is suitable, the camshaft pulley was changed for a V belt version in both cases.
It looks like you car has been used for sprints and hillclimbs which would explain the small fuel tank.
My Speedex had a shortened Box Saloon fuel tank which was fitted the opposite way round.
I would have a carefull check of the back axle in situ get a cellphone endoscope to look inside once you have drained the oil and given it a flush.
If it all looks well inside and has no nastys fill it back with oil and leave it alone. As the car is so light the strain on the axle is less.
15" wire wheels are the best way to go as the Speedex Wheels were not very well cast .
It looks in good condition but has been very modified from Jem Marshes bodywork.
Have fun with it.
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#9
Water pump discussed earlier:-

https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/for...d-640.html
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#10
Hi Jon

I’d agree with run it apart from the fact we’re in lockdown and you bought it for something to do during this restrictive time.

Apart from the fact I think it’s a “cool” car............

I think the front wings are too wide and look a bit like sails.  Butterfly lotus style clamshells?

Wheels as Chris has said.

Decision as to whether to make it an “oily rag” or restore? And whether to go “period” or not.... I’d go oily rag non period?.

Bigger fuel tank.

Water pump....or electric fan?

Good luck

Howard
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