Joined: Dec 2019 Posts: 77 Threads: 18
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: !938 Ruby
Hi whilst I have the manifold off is there a cold setting for the tappets. Handbook says set whilst the engine is hot, don't fancy having hands under scorching hot manifold but if needs must so be it. Thanks Mike.
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
10-03-2020, 02:18 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-03-2020, 02:25 PM by Colin Wilks.)
I was advised by a very experienced sevener to set all gaps to .010" cold. I have followed his advice and it seems to work. However, I have a feeling you may find this is a contentious issue on which opinions differ!
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,110 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Mike
I’ve always set mine at “sixes and sevens” 6 inlet 7 exhaust but that is a standard Seven. I believe your car is a Big Seven so it may be different?
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 682 Threads: 17
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Location: The far North East of England
Car type: 1934 Austin 7 AVH Van (in bits & incomplete!), 1936 Morris 8 Series I Tourer
10-03-2020, 03:05 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-03-2020, 06:07 PM by Jeff Taylor.)
Hi Mike,
Pitman's 'The Book of the Austin Seven and Eight' fourth edition 1953 recommends the following tappet clearances for the BIG SEVEN and EIGHT. This clearance recommendation is contained within Chapter 5 'Decarbonizing' which describes work on an engine block minus its head, manifold etc so I assume these will be cold clearances:
0.008" to 0.009"
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 882 Threads: 48
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Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
I've used 0.006" for inlets and 0.008" for exhausts (cold) for the last forty years. Hasn't let me down yet and the valves don't burn out!
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10-03-2020, 04:23 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-03-2020, 04:23 PM by Chris KC.)
Likewise I use 6 in and 8 ex.
I would never, ever contemplate setting them hot - should always be done at room temperature except under the direst of circumstances.
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Adjusting the clearance with a feeler gauge may be academic anyway. Often the tappet head has had an indent hammered into it by the valve stem over time, so the actual clearance may be greater - not that that is necessarily critical in normal road use unless excessively clattery.
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Location: Auckland, NZ
I note that LM Williams in his Specials book, immensely revered on this Forum, recommends .004 which I recall was the company recommendation. He does not distinguish various valve steels. Austin book 843/C 1957 states .004, hot!
I presume all cars are now running modern exh valve steels which expand more than XB and earlier, so somewaht greater gap appropriate.
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An indented tappet head at least results in an error on the 'safe' side i.e. too much gap.
Tappet screws clean up quite nicely if you chuck them in a bench drill and bring the head down onto some oiled wet & dry paper - on a flat surface of course.