HELP WITH PEDALS PLEASE

[Duncan Grimmond]

Quart into pint pot comes to mind, I'd agree that a blister would be the best way to go.

[daveg]

Here are a couple of pictures of the set up on a Nippy:-


  Pedal1.JPG (Size: 59.74 KB / Downloads: 362)


  Pedal2.JPG (Size: 151.25 KB / Downloads: 362)

It is hard to photograph and the angle of the picture can be deceptive but the Nippy brake pedal seems much closer to the steering column.

The Nippy layout appears to have only about 1" more room than your car between the steering column and the bodywork and there is room to move the accelerator 1" to the right so you may be able to make it work.

[spannerman]

Bulge or hand throttle ?. I think a Bulge is
Some work but you only have to do it
Once ! You can talk and discuss for days
Just deside and do.

[Paul Nott]

Bulge is not really the answer, the area where the accelerator needs to be fitted is adjacent to the wooden scuttle hoop strengthener.
If a bulge was to be fitted through metal work it would be 4inch's further away from the brake pedal towards the driver.
I have no objection to a bulge but moving the accelerator pedal 4 inches closer to the driver gives an uncomfortable leg angle, the purpose was to try and get all pedal horizontally aligned, dare I say it like a modern car!

[AustinWood]

I think the brake pedal needs to be longer than the clutch. The front brakes have to be set up to come on before the rears to overcome the front axle movement under braking. I always found that the pedal can get very close to the floor if maximum braking is to be achieved.
On the Austin the clutch pedal is very short rather than the brake long. There is so little clutch travel that the short pedal is more than adequate!

[Steve Jones]

I think the brake pedal needs to be longer than the clutch. The front brakes have to be set up to come on before the rears to overcome the front axle movement under braking. I always found that the pedal can get very close to the floor if maximum braking is to be achieved.
On the Austin the clutch pedal is very short rather than the brake long. There is so little clutch travel that the short pedal is more than adequate!

See photo of the pedals in my Ulster. The brake uses a Ruby type pedal with a home made 'stalk' set up such that heel and toeing is easy with the long pedal travel.


   

Steve

[Greig Smith]

When Dad & I built the supercharged single seater I had the pedals in & out many times until I'd finally got them into the shapes I wanted. Oxy acetylene to bend and stretch the shape and MIG to extend or join the bits. As it's an offset car there is only room for the clutch and brake within the body so my throttle is in a bulge on the side. The clutch lever skirts around the side of the bell housing with scant room to breathe - it took me a while to get the shape just right. The brake pedal was simpler, but also a good heat 'n bend job. In the attached pic, this is before I turned the brake pedal around so the kink was facing forward, I then cut and lengthened the top section to put the pedal at the same height as the clutch. Obviously I turned the cut top section around before welding so the disc was now facing the right way again. I also lengthened the shaft for the pedal disc to get a bit more clearance when the pedal arcs forward.

I recently sorted out an Ulster replica for a friend and the start point was a completely new brake pedal out of Dad's bits, several hours later it was a rather different shape, more curved and I'd lengthened it a bit, now his clutch and brake pedals are at the same heights, the brake is a fraction longer, tucked against the steering column and the throttle pedal is accessible for heel & toeing.

My suggestion is to get another pedal and start to work that into a better shape - if you box yourself into a corner you can always refit your old pedal while sorting the new one out. It's only steel, so heat works wonders. 

Looking at your pictures, I'd re-curve your brake pedal to get the round disc a bit higher - basically onto the ball of your foot when wearing your narrow driving shoes and I'd get it right up against the steering column - that will give you room on the RHS & below to fit a completely new throttle. You will have to re-cut the brake slot in the firewall. A neat new patch of aluminium on the front with a new slot will sort that out. Obviously the brake pivot bush needs to be right, with zero slop or wobble - that's your start point right there.

As for your current throttle, I'd strip it all out including the aluminium slotted bracket to make space and then fit a cable operated throttle pivoted from either above or off the firewall - Zeto called it in Post #21, the classic Mini throttle pedal is a good one for your situation & even that can be heated & bent into custom positions - I'd heat & bend the throttle arm straight and as close to the RHD of the bodywork as comfortably possible, then work out how to attach it securely. The toe pad needs to be a bit below the brake pedal like on Daveg's Nippy. The cable will have to curve to pull the throttle arm from the front or you can flip the arm upwards and pull it forward... I think the latter would work better.

Out here we call it Frankenfabrication 

Aye
Greig