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HELP WITH PEDALS PLEASE
#21
Classic mini throttle pedal work well in specials, comes complete with mounting bracket, mounts on a flat face with 2 bolts and the actual pedal hangs down below the pivot/ mounting.
I would get a standard brake pedal as it's position is fixed by the steerbox in the same way that the clutch pedal is fixed by the gearbox.
Current pedal looks a right lash up
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#22
Hi all
Have now removed the brake pedal, does this look like an original pedal?
Some of you have suggested replacing with a Ruby pedal but how does it differ, my main is to have a shorter peda, closer to the steering column allowing room for a top hinged accelerator. 
Managed to find a Morris Minor assembly on line with pivots, thought this may be a good starting point.


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#23
I think it is important to be able to 'heel & toe'. ie Operate the accelerator while pressing the brake. This allows down changes while braking.
The standard layout, with the accelerator lower down and beside the brake, makes this easy. However if you have synchromesh maybe no so important!
Jim
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#24
Agree it would be nice to heel and toe, hopefully by reducing the brake pedal length by 2inchs and making space for a proper throttle this will be achievable.
Will also give me the additional benifit of more leg room, that's the plan.
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#25
Hi Paul

It looks like an original pedal.  Or at least it was in the distant past.  It’s been bent almost beyond recognition. I would be a little worried that such bending may well have caused some cracks!

The brake and clutch pedals should have pretty much the same shape if that helps!  As has been suggested if you can get a Ruby pedal then there is more scope to adjust to suit your footwell.

Cheers

Howard
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#26
Paul, There is a reasonably good illustration of a Ruby brake pedal on page 46 here:

http://archive.a7ca.org/wp-content/uploads/PL_1586A.pdf

My good friend the archivist would doubtless say that if you wish to know what original parts look like (allowing for artistic interpretation) the archive is at your service.

Regards,

Stuart
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#27
Thanks Stuart, downloaded.
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#28
No wonder your brake pedal came back so far into the car, that one has been butchered almost beyond recognition! I wonder why? hard to understand what the builder was thinking? perhaps he was very short or had one leg longer than the other? All very strange. Put in a standard pedal arrangement and see what room you have left for the accelerator, more photos with that done and we may have further suggestions. As already mentioned, a brake pedal can successfully be bent slightly to move it across closer to the steering column and the toe pad can be slimmed down, both these will give slightly more foot space.

One more thought, what is the distance between the steering column and the side of the body, anything less than 5'' and you will need a bulge, and 5" will be tight, with feet your size you will probably not manage.
Black Art Enthusiast
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#29
As you can see i do have less than 5inch's of foot space.
Ideally I wanted to fit the pedal within this area, if it has to be moved closer to the driver, outside of the hoop strengthener it makes things a little difficult at my knee hits the steering wheel, drivable but not ideal.
That was the original reason to move the existing pedal, perhaps it would be easier to take 12 inches of my right leg!


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#30
Hi Paul

I have seen a special some years ago with the clutch pedal on the opposite side of the gearbox and brake on the left of the column. It left the driver with rather an odd seating position.  However I’m guessing a few single seaters do the same. Probably not an option for you however I think you may need to redesign the whole footwell area, clutch and brake mechanism as well as the pedals themselves. Either that or bite the bullet and put in a blister.

Cheers

Howard
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