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Workshop Insulation
#11
Leave the doors and windows open (even if it's raining) for a few days.

Don't be tempted to use a dehumidifier. In a wooden building, all that they do is to draw more moisture from outside through the timber cladding, which will never dry out.

Does the floor have a damp-proof membrane? If it does, you don't really need to do anything more than letting it dry and then seal it, mainly to keep the dust at bay. If it doesn't, then it'll need a damp-proof surface of some sort.
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#12
Tony is right that a very small heater will make a huge difference when the shed / garage is insulated. A good way of introducing this heat is a domestic dehumidifier, which will also keep things dry (providing it is drained away outside). Lack of draught would then be an advantage to keep the heat and dry air in.
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#13

.jpeg   66422260-4C9C-41F0-BD53-DA6A406CBA28.jpeg (Size: 73.86 KB / Downloads: 271) TI built this all wood workshop myself (I’ll await a telling off from Martin Prior!) and did exactly what he recommended, 4” glass fibre lined with 5 ply sheet and even in the depths of winter there was no condensation on the cars or the lathe and milling machine.
My new garage is brick with a new wooden workshop extension, so I’ll have to work out what will be effective in the brick built section.
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#14
Bruce - Absolutely "No" to a dehumidifier in a timber building! I have seen so many problems caused by these of many years. A well-built timber garage will behave just a Ivor has described.
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#15
(12-12-2019, 04:25 PM)Martin Prior Wrote: Bruce - Absolutely "No" to a dehumidifier in a timber building!   I have seen so many problems caused by these of many years.  A well-built timber garage will behave just a Ivor has described.

Exactly what sort of problems Martin?
Maybe I'm daft but I've been using one for years and aside from the electricity it's been fine. Keeps heavy stuff like lathes rust free, provides an endless supply of decent water for radiators and my wooden garage with pantiled roof has survived the 2+decades since I built it remarkably well.
However I am in a damp valley bottom - if I dug a pit it would be water filled 2ft down - so perhaps damp is more of an issue for me.

C
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#16
(12-12-2019, 06:04 PM)Charles P Wrote:
(12-12-2019, 04:25 PM)Martin Prior Wrote: Bruce - Absolutely "No" to a dehumidifier in a timber building!   I have seen so many problems caused by these of many years.  A well-built timber garage will behave just a Ivor has described.

Exactly what sort of problems Martin?
Maybe I'm daft but I've been using one for years and aside from the electricity it's been fine. Keeps heavy stuff like lathes rust free, provides an endless supply of decent water for radiators and my wooden garage with pantiled roof has survived the 2+decades since I built it remarkably well.
However I am in a damp valley bottom - if I dug a pit it would be water filled 2ft down - so perhaps damp is more of an issue for me.

C

We have been running one in our wooden boat for some years and it works a treat. Keeps it warmish and the mould at bay. Clean the filter every month or so and it should be fine. A fair number of the boats in our marina are also running them with no trouble.
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#17
Thank you for all of the advice and information about the ways in which you have all tackled this problem. On reading your suggestions, I am more or less settled on using rolls of fibreglass insulation (on a very reasonable offer from Travis Perkins at present) and a covering of whatever ply, OSB or MDF sheeting I can find at a good price. I shall do this on the walls, doors and roof.

I shall fit a small extractor fan up high that will ensure a trickle of fresh air.

(12-12-2019, 11:02 AM)Martin Prior Wrote: Leave the doors and windows open (even if it's raining) for a few days.  

The roof is quite nicely designed. It has a gap of about 2" under the eaves which allows a good flow of air which seems to be helping to dry it out.

(12-12-2019, 11:02 AM)Martin Prior Wrote: Does the floor have a damp-proof membrane?  If it does, you don't really need to do anything more than letting it dry and then seal it, mainly to keep the dust at bay.  If it doesn't, then it'll need a damp-proof surface of some sort.

The floor is 1" thick timber on battens, so I plan to cover it with hardboard and use workshop matting on top. This is the wettest bit now.

Regards,

JAmie.
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#18
It is worth considering the science.  Warm air holds more moisture than cool air but will have a lower relative humidity. Thus on an autumn day as the temperature drops the relative humidity rises until as the dew point temperature is reached condensation is formed.  On a wet winters day the air between raindrops contains less water than the warm air in your kitchen when the spuds are boiling.  This is why modern heat exchange systems drag air into buildings through heat exchangers whilst expelling the internal air.  This keeps the temperature up and moisture down.  Garages are not heated full time so it pays to insulate well to keep heat in.  My own garage had single skin brick walls and a single skin tin roof.  Every winter condensation would drip from the roof and the environment was poor.  18 months ago the roof was changed for a modern system of joists, plywood deck 100 mm insulation a second plywood sheet carrying a waterproof membrane.  The change was staggering. No more condensation,Pleasant atmosphere and last winter the temperature did not drop below 5 degrees C at any time.  When I was working a simple fan heater produced a pleasant temperature.  Also the garage remains cool in the summer.  What we need to achieve is to keep the air above dew point temperature at all times so condensation does not form.  In doing this insulation is paramount.  New houses have in excess of 200 mm in their roof, but any voids must be cross ventilated.  Colin Ayre
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#19
Thumbs Down 
Confused Never be tempted to buy a sectional concrete garage.  That's all.
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#20
But first, I need to get the guttering up and the waterproofing on the outside. The driving rain is clearly seeping into the tantalised timber. It is frustrating because t cannot waterproof it while it is wet and don't want to insulate it either until it is thoroughly dry inside.

Unless there is some magic waterproofing product which can be used on damp wood and is effective. Somehow, though, I imagine that this is wishful thinking.
Jamie.
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