Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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I am about to relieve a tool to enable it to be square to the lining for punching.
Is it reasonable to consider relieving the edge of the shoe casting a few mm, so the tool does not become too weak in being cut away to pass the casting?
Also, do people use washers between the rivet and the reverse of the lining material. I have seen it in some examples.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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As you might surmise, I have the linings...!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Jon it might be helpful to post a photo, I can't quite grasp what you have in mind. I wouldn't take any metal off the shoe and it should not be necessary to do so.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 782 Threads: 26
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Hi Jon
I tried to post a picture of mine but have given up with the process, it still didn't want it after I had turned it into a "gif", whatever that is.
Mine is a half inch bar ground out past half way to clear the bump in the shoe, seems to work ok.
Simon
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Location: Scottish Borders
I have modified the punch I use for riveting brake lines by grinding a groove into it. Now it clears the web on the shoe and goes square onto the rivet. This works well and as very little force is needed rivet the copper there is no strength issue.
I would not take any metal of the web on the shoe. I have in the past had a shoe snap so would not want to weaken it.
In addition I glue the lining to the shoe with a very thin smear of araldite. The shoe and lining are clamped into a brake drum overnight with some of the old rivets in place to position the lining on the shoe. This is simply to make riveting easier because it is difficult to hold the shoe, lining, punch and hammer with only 2 hands. Aradite alone is not up to the job.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 272 Threads: 18
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Location: Deepest Norfolk
That Araldite/brake drum/clamp setup is a really good idea - I willl definitely try that next time I reline my brakes.
Rick
In deepest Norfolk