All the engine builders out there.

[Au5t1n7]

i have been trying to move my Phoenix crank from one crankcase to another.

It was a right job to get the old bearings out, and even harder to get them on
The biggest issue seemed to be getting both front bearings onto the end of the crank, and they needed some help (of the heavy kind) to get in. The other end wasn't exactly easy.
I had the use of a hot air gun, but no thermometer. About 4 mins moving around to get some expansion.

Two qeustions:

1. Am I likely to heave ruined these bearings having to knock them in, and do I need to start over.

2. If yes, please can anyone offer the best of advice to achieve the desired result. All tips, secret recipes welcome.

Love the new forum.

[Derek Sheldon]

Had the same problem a couple of years ago, was advised by our friend north of the border that they would go on with a little persuation, I used a piece of pipe, heat and a big hammer. He was correct.
Two weeks ago I had to strip it all down due to the bearing lip disintergrating. I found that it was even more difficult to get them off. I am asking for advice as to it would be a sensible thing to do to take a few microns off with some wet and dry before reassembly?.

[Ian Williams]

Derek no please don't remove material! a heat gun helps enormously, get it right and the bearings pretty much just drop on, you have to work quickly though. A length of studding in the front of the crank, short length of tube, big washer and nut will finish the job!

[Bob Culver]

For what it may be worth, the Austin 1929 factory drawing published some time ago (but which I cannot now find), gave tolerance as front -.00025, rear +.00025 so the front was originally not a tight fit.
Especially as older bearings had a tolerance range which extended above the nominal
 
Was it the rigours associated tight assembly which started the lip failure?
Tight assembly does much to quieten bearings, possibly explains why there is no discussion about internal tolerances of now.
 
I have asked before, but what exact size(s) are Phoenix cranks finished? Nitriding is slightly haphazard if not finally ground. Are the end journals linished? For such precision micrometer needs to be checked against known standard.

[Derek Sheldon]

Derek no please don't remove material! a heat gun helps enormously, get it right and the bearings pretty much just drop on, you have to work quickly though. A length of studding in the front of the crank, short length of tube, big washer and nut will finish the job!

ian,
Are you talking about warming the bearing ? . I did use the other techniques you suggest. thanks

[Ian Williams]

Derek no please don't remove material! a heat gun helps enormously, get it right and the bearings pretty much just drop on, you have to work quickly though. A length of studding in the front of the crank, short length of tube, big washer and nut will finish the job!

ian,
Are you talking about warming the bearing ? . I did use the other techniques you suggest. thanks

I warm the case to expand that and the bearing, with the rear bearing it will drop on all the way no need to use any kind of drift, warm the case and the outer also slides in without force. The Fronts are complicated by the crankcase but heat helps and once you get them on the puller/pusher can be used to seat them. I believe many crankcase lips have been weakened by smashing them on cold with a big hammer and drift! Also multiple impacts transferred through the balls to the races will do nothing for the life of the bearing. Just my thoughts and the way I do things, others may have alternative views.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Here is the tool I use (made by a great friend) to push the front bearings in/on. The washer is used for angular contact bearings.

I have similar one for the rear main.

If anyone has successfully made one to extract the bearings I would be very keen to see it.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

2

[Derek Sheldon]

Ruairidh, are there any manufacturing drawings for these , please

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Not for this Derek - sorry.