30-11-2019, 12:19 PM (This post was last modified: 30-11-2019, 02:07 PM by Duncan Grimmond.)
Although I like mudguards that turn I fear you may end up with a lot of mud on the inner faces of the guards which will add to the unsprung weight and it could seriously affect your steering. It would also add to the strain on the stays.
I’d suggest moving guards closer to the tyres for road use and fixed ones with spats mounted on the body for mud pluggery.
With winter having arrived in the form of wet and cold weather I’ve been inside (right inside and in the sitting room) sorting out the upholstery.
I’ve gone for a very simple solution that will not only be waterproof but also easy to remove. The material is 23g / sq m. canvas. Quite heavy but my 1953 Singer had no difficulties. I’ve used foam wrapped in wadding for both cushion and squab. Time will tell but it seems reasonably comfy but can be replaced / added to Later. Both cushion and squab are just press studded in place.
Hi Duncan if you’re reading this I’ve now reduced the length of the front stays and the guards sit just an 1” or so off the tyres. Thanks for the input!
I like the simple seating arrangement, QD is always a good idea for cleaning etc.
Removing "twang" from mudguard stays saves a lot of future repair work as I have discovered, usually miles from a welder! I originally mounted bullet type indicators on my moving mudguards but it's amazing how much they add to the vibro-fracture coefficient.
I’ve not posted for some time, partly due to having family over Christmas and partly from having a decorating break.
I’ve succumbed to numerous comments regarding the ride height of the car and had the front spring reset. I pondered long and hard and eventually went for a camber of just 1”. This afternoon I fitted the spring and am quite pleased with the result.
Unfortunately there are knock on implications.... the steering arm (a high chassis arm which I had crack tested) puts the drag link too close to the flitch panels. I will also need to swap over the track rod arms to give more clearance under the sump.
I have made other progress over the last few weeks. All the wiring is now complete apart from a high level brake light which I want to fit. I have four rear side lights and two brake lights but the car is mat black!
I’ve also been busy with the sewing machine and have a tonneau for rainy days!
21-01-2020, 05:29 PM (This post was last modified: 21-01-2020, 05:46 PM by Dennis Nicholas.)
No heater yet?
Don't tell anyone but I used Morris Minor 1,000 drop arms with the tapered ends turned down parallel and keyway cut in to fit in the (big 7) stub axles. The arms had to be bent downwards and up to form a mild Z shape so track rod would clear sump/chassis....the advantage was easy to source MM ball joint track rod ends, right and left hand threaded and the arms will not twist in the stubs. Work done by local garage long time ago.....fix anything from TVs to combine harvesters .
I’ve now fitted a Big Seven steering arm which drops the drag rod all of 1/4”. Ah well it is still much beefier than the standard Seven. I will have to modify the flitch plate slightly.
Now a bit of frippery....
An ES Klaxon horn. Very loud and was an original fitment to the Fabric race cars! It works by spinning a serrated disc against a thin plate. I’ve had it all to pieces, sprayed it and fitted to a bracket on the rear cross member.
and I know it’s right in line for all the muck thrown up from the front wheels so a small stone guard may be needed.
.
