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Screwing new manifold studs into a block, it became clear that standard 2 5/8" seemed too short, which I can now see is probably due to wear in the thread on the block edge. They hold fine and tight (I don't want to helicoil) but don't leave me enough left for the brass nuts. The next size up are 3 1/4" which would be too large without extra washers.
The ones that I'm taking out indeed seem to fit well for my manifold and block... they are about 3" or a tad under. And probably date from 60 years ago plus. Has anyone else had to make up or source odd studs for the same situation on an old block?
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Jon
Why not run a die down the longer stud extending the thread and then cut off the excess?
Cheers
Howard
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Thanks, good idea. I'll get the longer ones. (I also have one single very long one which doesn't want to come out of the block and I can do that to save building it up with spacers as it was!)
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Yes, what Howard said. It's not an uncommon predicament I think - all manner of manifolds out there.
Possibly I'm being pedantic, but I always check the block waterways from above and try to avoid blocking them with the 'internal' ends of the studs, fettling as necessary.
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it's the first time I've used my die (previously bought under the "you might well need one of those" title) and it was quite fun doing that!
It was 1 and 7 that seemed to have the most thread loss at block surface. Any reason that might happen in comparison to the others?
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Hi Jon,
I usually use the long studs with a 5/16 nut as a spacer, it has the advantage of keeping the brass nuts away from the heat of the manifold.
Its not a pretty solution but I am not a purist polisher ( I went for the easiest instant solution )
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good to know...
After bolting it all together no. 1 wouldn't tension, despite me having checked the thread.
So I drilled and tapped for an oversize stud which was also in my "you might need one of those" pot.
I've realised that oversize studs don't seem to have the advantage of tensioning back against the untapped shank.. i.e. they are in danger of screwing right through. I used some silicon loctite copper to stick it in, but I don't imagine that is strong enough. What is the right thing to use there for next time?
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
Is there enough meat in the manifold to step the whole thing up to 5/16?
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Jon
I personally would have helicoiled the thread but I’m not sure that you can do this now. I’m not sure Loctite copper silicon is the right compound. Maybe a simple Loctite thread locker?
I will be interested to hear what others use.
Cheers
Howard
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I was conscious of not everyone liking helicoils (for water tightness and if they aren't done absolutely professionally).
And I didn't have one...
re the 5/16" Colin, - this brings back memories of another car... and I drilled the manifold out a tad after eventually getting the bleeding thing off!! But good point. I can see that would return the 'stop' to the stud. In the meantime, I'm not going to touch it if it all works!
