CLUTCH QUESTION

[Colin Wilks]

Rob, from the comments from others who are much more experienced than I am, it sounds like my juddering and loose rivets may just be coincidence. When I started with Sevens a couple of years ago the best thing I did was join my local PWA7C and get to know people who had owned and worked on Sevens for years. Looking at the site https://www.pwa7c.co.uk/groups.php there don't appear to be any groups in your neck of the woods unfortunately, although there must be quite a few on this forum in range of you. Maybe getting an old hand to test drive the car might make sense before you start pulling it apart. In my limited experience, the more you take off the more you learn, which for me is one of the joys of these cars, but also the more you find that needs rectifying!

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Just found this which is more your part of the world.
http://austinsevenownersclub.co.uk/

[Chris KC]

That's what I was going to say. It would be a shame to remove the engine and get it apart and find all is normal!

[Rpm]

Hi, Simon, that's reassuring to know and maybe saving me a lot of time only perhaps to find no fault with the clutch, re changing down a gear as a brake is fine.
I will grit my teeth as you say and try that method of reversing, foot straight off. At the moment I leave blake tyre marks.
Thanks all.
Rob RPM

[Rpm]

Hi Colin, you're correct in saying the more you get under the car the more you learn about these cars, are you also saying that your judder was down to loose rivets.
I'm going to join the Essex A7 club. I think im going to forget this judder for now and stop obsessing about it, given the comments above and get on with trying to hang the doors instead. problem is there isn't much wood the fix head-scratching time.
Thanks again Rob

[Colin Wilks]

I can't say for certain that the loose rivets caused the juddering, but they can't have helped. The clutch in my other car (RP) works fine in forwards and reverse, so I wouldn't agree that they all do this. In reverse everything is being forced t'other way, so propshaft or back axle could be the cause. I'll know when I get mine all back together.

[Rpm]

Colin, Don't think Austins would have sold many A7s If they all behaved like mine on leaving the factory.
hope you make good progress with your latest.
Rob

[Peter Clayton]

Before you strip down anything make sure that the torque tube is secure on the chassis mounting.

[Rpm]

Hi, Peter. All looks tight and secure there, however, don't appear to have much adjustment left on the torque tube backet. Re-torque tube how tight is tight ? should you be able to move the torque tube by hand from side to side with a bit of effet?
rob

[Bob Culver]

Does all the above refer to the rivets which retain the linings or the rivets which connect the plate to centre? Not uncommon for the latter to be loose. Presumably the symptoms are the same as with very worn splines; a clack clack noise at low revs and low speed when drive reverses.

[Howard Wright]

Hi Rpm

I think Peter is referring to the connection between the support bracket and the chassis.  I had ferocious judder when I first put the RK together. Then I found that you could move the whole support bracket up and down on the ball.  The big nut on the base of the support bracket needs to be tightened to ensure no vertical movement.

Regarding the big castellated nut tightness. The ball section of the torque tube does tend to wear in one place and it is difficult to judge how much to tighten the nut. Too tight and it can snag damaging the tube. If it is very slack you can remove the support bracket an shave a small amount off the face (1/16”?). The castellated nut should then tighten up a little more. 

Cheers

Howard