Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,402 Threads: 33
Reputation:
36
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
I am not an engineer but I do understand engineering concepts. If the caster angle on your car has "disappeared" then there is a reason for it that you haven't discovered. It hasn't fallen off, it has " gone" because something is wrong with the axle to chassis alignment. Either the chassis is bent or the crossmember isn't straight. The caster angle on the Seven is created by the relationship between the radius arms and the axle beam. Bugger about with it and you may make things worse. I think enough has been said on this subject.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,715 Threads: 47
Reputation:
25
Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
As the thread has progressed Tony I have also become increasingly convinced it is a wind up, I was trying to stay out of this but there now I have said it!
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,642 Threads: 93
Reputation:
15
Location: Monmouthshire
OK, as the initial question and subsequent contributions seemed to be written in Estuary English rather than any sort of technical language, doubts seem some what justified. A comment on behalf of a friend of course.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 11 Threads: 3
Reputation:
0
Having followed this post I feel I must contribute and defend my friend John.
This is not a wind up,he recently purchased a beautifully '31 restored boat tail and is not happy with its tendency
to wonder about the road.
John keeps referring to himself as an engineer and he is, although retired now,
he designed the original optic that measures our spirits in our public houses today.
I agree with some posts and I have told him he should except things as they are,
time has moved on since he first own a 7 and roads conditions have changed over the years.
please respect his intentions, he means well.
Regards Clive
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
Reputation:
10
Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I have a friend in his eighties who decided that he wanted a Chummy a few years ago. He also has a 1928 Riley and has owned many vintage cars over the years. He insists that the Chummy handles badly, 'darting around the road', but I and another Austin Seven owning friend have driven it and I am satisfied that it is normal. The Riley is also a subject of complaint, but I have pointed out that these cars should not be driven gripping the steering wheel firmly, nor should the engine be revved hard to avoid stalling when letting in the clutch, but said friend does not change his technique, although he does admit that the problem is not evident when I am driving. In my opinion the Chummy is fine on the steering within normal limits, and the Riley (cone) clutch does not judder unless the engine is revved unneccessarily. Maybe our Austin Seven owner needs a polite driving lesson by a friend he can trust.
Robert Leigh
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 919 Threads: 18
Reputation:
13
Location: North Yorkshire
When I take my Austin 7 saloon for a weeks holiday then get back into my modern plastic and tin box I find the steering very rubbery. If you are conscious of steering an Austin 7, it isn't steering as it should!
The only time I have ever experienced serious wandering in an Austin 7 was in one with newly done king-pins, one of which was far too tight in its bushes. They tend to steer much better when everything is a bit looser.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
Reputation:
14
Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
My RP had a tendency to become a 'bit of a handful' when approaching it's top speed (about 50mph) but was perfectly manageable. Checking over the car the other week when I serviced it, I noticed that one of the track rod end pins had play in its bush - not a lot, but some noticeable movement.
Having replaced the pin and bush this weekend, (see my post on the "What have you done today with your Austin Seven") I went on a test drive today, and the steering is noticeably sharper and completely stable at all speeds.
Moral: make sure that all the steering pins and joints are in good condition first!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
re Robert Leighs reply
As with many old cars to some extent, the steering geometry of a Seven is not "correct". If the steering box is locked rise and fall of the axle causes steer. This can be shown by rocking the car with the box normal. The steering wheel should remain still but turns remarkably. Same if you drive hands off over winds and waves. Hence many claim (including that great authority Nicholson!!) that some steering box play is desirable (and I have heard this view from other exponents of other old cars, although have always striven for very little). Except when things were really serious I developed the habit (never lost!) of steering with one hand as this gave a desirable resilience to the steering feedback, the wheel moving instead of the road wheels.
(I have been involved with Javelin cars for eons. These have screw adjustments which influence bump steer. Cars correctly set up without are markedly less fatguing to drive on winding and wavy surfaces. Note that with straight axle cars in particullr some steering feedback from gyroscopic effects is inevitable.)
Modern cars with perfect geometry have tight joints which dampen shimmy but older cars rely on the self centring to restore minor deflections if some part of the linkage is stiff restoration is blocked and the car wanders constantly.
