Ruby Radiator Water Level

[Colin Morgan]

The water in the radiator seems to find its own level towards the bottom of the top tank.  It would be better if more water stayed in the tank as a buffer against times when the engine is working hard, and also to reduce the frequency of topping up.  There is no sign of a leak, so presumably water is being lost to 'slosh' through the overflow pipe? 

Colin

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Have you considered fitting a simple expansion tank?

[Chris KC]

That's pretty normal Colin. I confess I've never been able to resist the urge to top it up, but most of what I put in erupts in a plume from the rad cap the first time I touch the brakes.

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Ruairidh, that's a thing I've idly thought about once or twice, do you have an established way of doing it? (a pic would be nice)

[Terrytuned]

No loss water system  Terry.

[Bob Culver]

For decade my RP had a tiny hole in the radiator cap. On "heavy" braking a tiny jet of rusty steaming water woud go over the roof! So a lot must go out the overflow. With a Ruby is it practicable to fit a pressure cap?
A simple semi open tin (no plastic please) catches fluid which can be poured back in. Very desirable when using expensive anti corrosive  It is tempting to close up the overflow. Been done on mine at some stage. So on pressure test the radiator resembles an Alchazelsor tablet.

[Colin Morgan]

All I had considered so far was adding something to the top of the overflow pipe in the tank that might stop/reduce the eaase with which liquid escapes - but I wasn't sure what since any restriction could defeat the object, especially if it happened to create a syphon effect.  Had not thought of a header tank as a solution.  Did consider trying to catch the escaping fluid and pouring it back in - which might have accidently led to a working header tank!  

Might be worth experimenting to see if anything simple works on the open end of the overflow pipe in the tank?

Colin

[Chris KC]

Of course a fairly simple solution which has worked fairly well for me up to now is to carry a quart plastic bottle somewhere in the car. I have succeeded in finding a nearby stream even on the M25!

p.s. thanks Terry

[Colin Morgan]

That reminds me - I should carry a bit of 30% anti-freeze solution in the car.

[Nick Salmon]

I used to have issues with the Opal overheating/losing water when working really hard on repeated hills on hot days. Followed the header tank route about four years ago and have never had a single problem since. Will try and post a photo over the weekend. 

p.s. I found that suitable, small'ish aluminium tanks are extortionately priced over here. Was lucky to have a mate in the U.S. who brought one over for me at about half the U.K. price.

[Hedd_Jones]

All my cars spit water out until they find their own acceptable level then stop doing it. When they are at this point there is water over the core tubes, but not a lot. I stopped worrying about it some time ago. My pre flight check is, cap off, liquid present. Good to go.

As for boiling, as they are thermosyphon, it will happen if you work it hard enough. No big deal so long as you top up. If you've ever watched a 1930's standard Fordson driving a threshing box via the belt, you will soon come to understand the robustness of a sidevalve to boiling. They will boil all day!