When I built my 1938 Ruby special I used the piece in the 750 special builders guide to make a front twin shock absorber. I used the springs from spare rear shocks and the back plates. The threads on these are bicycle threads the same as bike hub spinners. I used these to be able to adjust the pressure on the shocks. Having only standard friction discs I used washers to keep the discs in place. The standard shockers bracket was used and discs and spacer were cut from 1/4" plate. and welded together. The outer ends are onto 3/8 studs in the ends of the radius arm. I hope the photo comes with this if not I will send it on its own.
It's not obvious from the photo but there are 2 blades each side with a friction disk each side of the bracket. the blades are then each side of the Ali link with a rubber insert.
I have one s/a arm fixed directly to an axle stud using one half of a vertical link (discretely tucked up in-between the blades) so it acts as a Panhard Rod. This I believe is all you have to do to locate the front axle and eliminate wander. It has worked fine on my car for over 30years.
I suspect that, theoretically, this is a mod that really shouldn't work... because by effectively removing a vertical link you are asking the s/a arm to follow a trajectory (relative to the axle beam) for which it was not designed; thereby placing a strain on it.
I suspect the reason the single central pivoting s/a still works in practice is that a combination of narrow track, narrow 19" wheels and a compliant single spring and shackles allows for just enough "give".
That's my theory anyway. I make no claims as to it's veracity.
(10-10-2019, 12:32 AM)Rick F Wrote: That is precisely what I have done, Ray and it appears to work - at least on the six-mile test drive which is all I have done so far.
I would be interested to know how long ago you did yours and how many miles you have covered without anything breaking!!
Rick, as I said it is over 30 years since I did that mod. I have not kept a record of the mileage but it is probably quite a bit. I have checked on the set up a few times over the years and I am happy that the fix is quite sound and there have been no breakages or noticeable wear. In any event, having a car that steers in a straight line (more or less!) is better than the alternative. These days I only take "trundles" out for a gentle ramble around the local lanes but the state of our roads is so abysmal that almost anything that we do seems futile!
10-10-2019, 08:09 AM (This post was last modified: 10-10-2019, 09:48 AM by Bob Culver.)
Hi all
Is there any consesus as to the best side to lock when this mod adopted?
It is a bit surprising that the thin metal of the s.a blade ends and the "centre bearing" survive long term use.
For the rubber block solution no one has ever published a diagram of an ideally shaped piece to reduce experiment. Old gumboots and some shoes can provide a large piece of rubber or similar.
I cannot quite envisage how the "half link" is arranged. Just locking the eye over the axle stud would seem to suffice.
