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black art of ‘Bow front axles’ - Special GN312
#1
Hello chaps
Please educate me on the black art of ‘Bow front axles’, are they worth the investment ? where can I find one and are there other parts I need change ? what’s a reasonable budget ?
GN312 is very much a special and I plan on using it for just about everything, currently I have a rather flat front leaf, do I need to consider a positive camber on the leaf ? are there good reference links to Seven modifications ?
Websites I can get away with reading at work, manuals and books a little harder ?

Chassis now stripped and being cleaned, whilst at this stage I plan on boxing the front of the chassis. Ideal time to do it…. Also found the original chassis number, prefixed with a C ( export I understand) and looks like it was once painted green, before the surface rust set in  Smile
Many thanks in advance
Cheers
Matt

   
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#2
GN is an odd one - Dec 30-March 31 and only issued (London) to number 141. Commercials from 9000 upward. Where did you get info about C signifying export? Presumable you also have E for engine below it?
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#3
As a very basic start you need the essential 750 Motor Club book: https://www.750mc.co.uk/store/products,a...ook_50.htm  Read and absorb that and you'll be well on the way.....
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#4
The C prefix to the chassis number merely indicates 'chassis'!
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#5
Jon, the GN registrations were certainly issued well beyond 141! There are at least two historic Roesch Talbots which were originally issued with GN numbers: the ex-Bill Esplen's Talbot 90 Brooklands was GN 5872, and the ex-Norman Pruce's 90 tourer was GN 7336


.jpg   1931 Talbot Brooklands.jpg (Size: 90.03 KB / Downloads: 419)

   
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#6
Ruairidh will bow your axle beam and I stock flat front springs.
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#7
And Ruairidh does a very good job as the one I have here that he did confirms.

Steve
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#8
must either be a typo, or rather that 141 onwards are all in 1931, Mike. Does that tie with the cars above date-wise?
Matt - yours must be perhaps Jan '31?
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#9
Matt, If you use a dropped axle you could then go slightly flatter with the front spring, if it is not worn they can be reset, otherwise for new Ian Dunford is the main person that I am aware of. Personally don't think raising the ride height will be a good idea unless lots of trials events are considered. One thing you need to look at is the castor angle, if you do not set this correctly you will have a poor handling car, the less angle you have the greater the directional instability, but over do with too much angle it and the car will understeer and have heavy steering, a good average starting point is 5 degrees an will suit most. In order to achieve this with a flat spring you will need to alter the radius arm ends, yours at present appear std, there are replica sports ends on the market and these would be a good option, you can fit home made drop links but unless done well they are often rather unstable and unsatisfactory. There has over the years been much said on the subject here but probably scattered across many threads, the 750 Companion will give you a very good overview and is still available. However some of the advice is rather barbaric and somewhat dated.
Black Art Enthusiast
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#10
Jon, both Talbots were dispatched from the Works in late February, so were presumably registered at the end of February or sometime in March.
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