Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 518 Threads: 90
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15-09-2019, 10:54 PM
(This post was last modified: 15-09-2019, 11:29 PM by Jamie.)
I wonder whether anyone can help.
I am trying to dismantle my dynamo for repairs. I have removed the nut and dynamo drive gear, removed the brushes and wires and the long fixing bolts. I can move each end plate about a quarter of an inch, but cannot get either to come off. I had anticipated the distributor end cover coming off, but it is stuck. I have tried tapping the end plate off, but I do not want to risk breaking something by being too brutal.
What else do I need to undo?
Regards,
Jamie.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
A few months ago there were diagrams showing the difference between 35A and 35M dynamos, only one of which is shown in Woodrow. Search should reveal. Beware the distr drive key does not foul the end bearing bore. Care is necessary not to bruise the windings at the drive end.
Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 518 Threads: 90
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Thank you, Bob.
Well, the good news is that I have now got the thing to pieces.
The bad news is that one of the countersunk screws which holds the end plate onto the drive end of the dynamo has fallen onto the floor and rolled off into some inaccessible corner somewhere, never to be seen again.
I don't suppose anyone happens to know what thread these are?
Regards,
Jamie.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Well aware from bitter experience of the risk I removed one screw. Assuming it a 35M with external screws seems to be 2BA as doesn't want to enter a 3/16 BSF die. Dunno where you would get but were used in electrical things. May be able to countersink a cheesehead using drill and file.
Dunno what you know but using a digital meter the very low resistance between adjacent sections should all be very similar. it is common for the solder to have been thrown off.Often work despite very cooked appearance. Comm worn very low is often a serious problem
With a vernier calliper, now very cheap, and magnifying glass can usually establish thread dia and no per inch to identify. Various books have tables of threads often progressive and mixed, and all on the net somewhere.
Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 518 Threads: 90
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Thank you, Bob. I have now found one that fits.
