Double front shock absorber

[Ian Williams]

I don't think anyone is getting particularly muddled Bob, to get good handling without Hydraulics, which was the point of the OP, the two things are intrinsically linked, so to help less experienced and and avoid confusion they should in my opinion be discussed as one.

[JonE]

I'd like to know if, of anyone that found an improvement, did they do the "immobilisation of one end" thing first on the standard set up? And perhaps if anyone is thinking of buying one, could they do that first so we all have some comparative feedback.

[Malcolm Parker]

On a road going Austin 7 I don't think you need to do anything fancy, just immobilise one end as per Reckers advice.   I think what is going on at the back end is generally more relevant to whether an Austin 7 feels safe on the road?
When my saloon had knackered rear springs that were almost flat the handling was superb!

[Alan]

That’s quite right , Malcolm. I think the easiest way to improve Austin Seven handling is to reduce rear spring camber by 2 inches.

[DavidL]

Back to the "is it worth it?" question - for free try improving location, try rubber blocks if have material to hand. Am sure we'd all be interested in your findings for your particular car, roads, and driving style.

Beyond that perhaps the questions to the forum become "how hard is it to make the wide spaced version and is it worth the effort vs an off the shelf unit?"

[Tony Betts]

Hi david,

If you meen the cost you have to pay. There's only one way to find out if it's worth it.

MAKE IT YOURSELF. 

Time is most people's problem, they think they have plenty. But in reality, it all goes far to quickly.

If you can't make all the parts yourself, here are some individual parts prices from the seven workshops website.

4 x friction discs at £3.60 = £14.40
2 x nylon at £1.20 =.          £2.40
2 x centre bolts at £8.34 =. £33.35
4 x star springs at £5.70 =  £22.40
2 x pair of arms at £18.00 =£36.00 but you will need to shorten so you have time to add.

Total so far = £114.55

Then you start with the real part of the labour, you need to make the centre PLATE. Plus 4 discs to centre the fractions. And these are riveted originally.

Do be careful if you use 3mm centre plate, or even buy them with 3mm centre plate. There are some that have broken in the past.

The originals are 5mm plate, but for the cheaper opsion units offered 4mm plate is sufficient.

Please let us know if it's worth it, Tony.

[Dave Wortley]

Tony, some people like me are cheapskates and make them from scrap materials. Arms from ex rowing machine, centre bolts and compression springs from accumulated and inherited stuff , side plate washers from CO2 cylinder end caps. More interesting than watching telly or playing violent shoot to kill computer games.
Cheers,
Dave

[dickie65]

Hi Folks,
All you need is some scrap Ruby body supports with shock absorbers.
Cut the shock discs away and weld them either side of the front shock mount and bolt the arms onto studs tapped into the radius arm use the drop links to join it together.
Remove the shock drop link pins from the axle as the arms will foul them.

My Type 65 has been run like this for at least 20 years. I have reinforced the shock blades one one side and mounted the end onto the stud to act as a panhard rod, I have broken one stud in all that time due to bending fatigue.
I drive the car hard so a few problems are expected.
The advantage of this set up for me has been to stop the shackles inverting under hard cornering.
And it only cost me a few welding rods. I still have the original set up in the spares shed to fit back on if required

My dad used to have the same problem with the Box Saloon under spirited driving as well as loosing traction when the inside rear wheel lifted which usually resulted in an amusing series of squeeky bunny hops, and the occasional half shaft failure.
All good fun for me as a Teenage passenger.

[Tony Betts]

hi dave,

fully hair and appreciate what you are saying. as always.

but when it comes to you selling your cars, i take it you will be valueing  them according to the scrap parts they are made from.

and im sure you will value my point about time.

tony

[Dave Wortley]

Tony, sold my Cheapskate special with shock absorbers mentioned recently to a friend. I think in terms of my labour I probably paid myself 10p an hour but not worked it out accurately. I think the scrap bits would have been free of charge. Cheers,
Dave.