Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 782 Threads: 26
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Do you have a spark at a plug when you turn it over?
If so, then the the ignition circuit is ok.
The timing might be wrong, or fuel not being supplied.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
The coil earths through the points in the distributor. If you fit an earth lead to that side of the coil, the car will never run!
1. Are you negative earth? coils don't like being run the wrong way round.
2. With the ignition on, flick the points in the distributor and make sure you have a small blue spark across the points. Connect the main HT lead to the coil and hold it about 1/2 inch from the cylinder head. Flick the points and a fat blue spark should jump from the HT lead to the head.
3. If all is well, check the distributor cap for cracks and to make sure the carbon brush in the top is free (it should be able to push it in and it should then spring out again) Check the rotor arm for cracks and ensure that the brass contact is clean.
4. I presume the engine is timed correctly. To check, remove all the spark plugs except No1. Turn the engine over with the handle until compression is felt. . remove No1 spark plug and turn the engine a bit further with a screwdriver down the plug hole so that you can feel when the piston comes to TDC. Get the piston to TDC and set the distributor so that the points are just opening (the distributor goes clockwise) Fit the rotor arm and note which plug lead contact it points to in the distributor cap. That will be No1 Refit the plug leads to the cap in the order 1342 clockwise.
If all that is in order, it should start and run.
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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Hi Guys, Earth is Negative, Have tried two coils, a brand new one and the old one, (10years oldish ??) the new one seems to get quite hot after about 5-6mins when live?
I know they warm up, but this seems excessive?, and the 'old one' when wired up as described in my OP seems to get very hot at the - (negative terminal ) ?? ps both coils are marked - & +, not CB and IG, timing is OK, & cannot do screwdriver check as Ricardo Head, has plug hole over valves, running 1342, Dizzy cap brand new, and crack free. run out of ideas? now looking at carb ???, fuel pump rebuilt, and working fine.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
What do you mean when you say 'still won't run'?
- will it crank over on the starter?
- is it firing at all?
- are you getting a spark at the plugs?
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Hmm, It is difficult to diagnose at a distance, but, if you have fuel to the carb, and you are sure that you have a good spark at the plugs and it is occurring at the right time, the engine should run. Have you got compression? A common fault on newly rebuilt engines is tight tappets. (been there, done that!) 3 -4 thou inlet, 5-6 thou exhaust.
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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Hi Guys, will be away for a few days, on my return will double check timing, via valve chest cover, as timing marks on f/wheel have been re-marked by the engine builder??
Have a spare carb thats going for a re-build + fit new condenser. after that if it still won't run right, its back to the e/builder !!!!!
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 507 Threads: 129
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Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
Hello
Probably the best idea is to get on of us to pop in and have a look.
I am in Staffordshire so not sure if that’s anywhere near.
Regards
Tim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 782 Threads: 26
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Same question again: do you have a spark on a plug?
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
02-09-2019, 08:03 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-09-2019, 11:22 AM by Colin Wilks.
Edit Reason: Clarification of “rattling”
)
I would echo David Stepney’s advice at point 2. above. I had trouble starting my engine even though it showed a fat spark at the plug. Nick Turley recommended rattling the points (flicking them open rapidly to emulate what they do in real life) and observing the spark between the main lead and a head bolt). This showed the sparks dying away after only a few repetitions and was rectified by fitting a new condenser.
As an aside, why are you trying to start the engine with a lash up wiring set up? It doesn’t sound like the car is ready to drive and running the engine with no load will glaze the bores after a few minutes, which will prevent the rings bedding in and sealing correctly. I remember my Dad running in cars in the old days when the rule was to work it but not allow it to labour, and don’t leave it it ticking over.
