Sump Leak

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I have never, ever, done that David.

I make sure the engine is thoroughly clean inside, rebuild carefully and replace 20/50 detergent oil every 2000 miles.

[Mark McKibbin]

Yes there is some oil coming from above mainly from the block to crankcase joint that will have to wait until pull the motor apart.

I will get rid of the spring washers and the plain washers and try fibre although the Dowty route may be the way to go.  I also like the idea of studs but it might make it difficult to remove the sump in situ.

The sun has just come out so I might go for a drive to warm up the oil so I can change it, thanks for all the replies.

[Chris KC]

For what it's worth Mark there is no part of my engine which is anywhere near as clean as the bits I can see in your picture!

[David Stepney]

I have never, ever, done that David.

I make sure the engine is thoroughly clean inside, rebuild carefully and replace 20/50 detergent oil every 2000 miles.

Given that I have had a gap of several decades since my last Seven, and given also that the handbook is less than helpful regarding planned maintenance, I am in the process of developing a 'planned maintenance' procedure for my car.

Basically, this consists of:

1. At 2500 miles: Change engine oil
                           Check gearbox, axle and steering box oils
                           Grease all nipples
                           Check/adjust points and clean plugs and tune engine
                           Oil everything that moves.
                           Check all lights and electrical equipment.
2. At 5000 miles: All of the above plus:
                           Change gearbox and back axle oils
                           Remove sump, Clean gauze filter and refit.
                           New plugs and points.
                           Check antifreeze (Replace every other year)

When I first bought the car, the oil looked clean, but, on removing the sump, I found that there was a thick layer of greasy grey 'crud' in the bottom, which I presumed was all the stuff that had been in suspension in the oil that had gradually sunk to the bottom whilst the car was garaged for 25 years!

I am using a good quality semi-synthetic 10W/40 motor oil in the engine, a good quality mineral 20W/50 in the gearbox and a similar quality SAE140 in the rear axle, steering box and drag link joints. 20W/50 in the oil can for everything else.

Having now done almost 5000 miles in the car so far this year, the 2500 mile service has already been done, and the planned 5000 mile service is due in  about 400 miles.

In this way, I am hoping to keep the car reliable and hopefully to spot any potential problems before they arise!

I hope I am not being too OCD!

[Charles P]

  I also like the idea of studs but it might make it difficult to remove the sump in situ.

I can tell you from experience that you need to shave off the front corners of an ali sump an 1/8"


Charles

[Chris KC]

David,

I'm interested to hear you are using 10W40 in your engine as I plan to do the same with my 'next' engine. Logically it should be just the job though I have a big comfort zone to break out of having used 20W50 all my life. I'm less sure about 20W50 for the gearbox, it might be a bit heavy to find its way in where it's needed.

Regarding the oil strainer I'm with Ruairidh - save yourself the effort. I reckon it's only there to catch the bits of piston / crankcase when you blow something. On most engines I've seen the joint face is so wonky the oil simply flows around it!

[David Stepney]

Chris,

I use 10W/40 in the engine because it is reasonably free flowing and since the engine relies on oil flow rather than pressure, I assume that it gets to everywhere it is needed quicker.

20W/50 in the gearbox seems to work fine. When i got the car, there was virtually no oil in the gearbox, so I filled it with a pint of 20W/50. I hvae changed it twice since, and note that the gearbox doesn't leak. (its the only major assembly that doesn't!)

On re-reading my post of earlier to day, I see that I missed off both servicing regimes, removing the brake drums, checking the brakes and adjusting them at 2500 miles. Same again at 5000 miles pus removing the hubs and repacking the bearings with grease.

I note what both you and Ruairidh say about the sump gauze.

[John Mason]

We seem to be going off the thread of sump leaks however on the point of servicing know body has mentioned checking and re-adjusting tappet clearances.

John Mason

[David Stepney]

We seem to be going off the thread of sump leaks however on the point of servicing know body has mentioned checking and re-adjusting tappet clearances.

John Mason

Good points! The first one is called "thread drift" I believe.

The second point regarding tappet adjustment. I shall add this to the list!

[andrew34ruby]

I'm never quite sure about low mileage cars. Using a grease gun every 2,500 miles might be ok for a car that does 5,000 a year, but if the car only does 500 miles a year are you happy for it only being greased every five years?