Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
24-08-2019, 03:14 PM
(This post was last modified: 24-08-2019, 03:16 PM by Bob Culver.)
Linseed oil was the basis of paint and dries to a varnish. Would seem completely unsuitable. If it rains in Germany I suspect you will soon return to electric.
Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 137 Threads: 6
Reputation:
3
Location: Germany
Car type: RP 1934
24-08-2019, 10:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 24-08-2019, 10:17 PM by Frank Stoll.)
Hello Bob,
that was excactly what came to my mind when I read about the linseed oil. I used linseed oil for my oil paints and if the linseed bottle had not been in use for a while opening it was nearly impossible because it had become hard. Other vegetable oils, as suggested by the company that sells the seals, possible?! I do not know.
Concerning the weather. If it rains my car stays indoor... have been doing this for the last thirty years. Of course the weather in the southern parts of Germany is pretty hot and dry. Even today we had temperatures beyond 30°C and I took my Austin on a 97 miles tour through the lovely (unfortunately dried out) forests of southern Germany. One drop of rain (well... slightly exaggerated) and the car is off the road.
Regards
Frank
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 984 Threads: 6
Reputation:
12
Location: Scottish Borders
The springs of the Citroen 2CV operate inside a steel cylinder. The pull rods which act on the springs have a leather washer similar to the vacuum wiper but much bigger. The washers trap air between the two springs which acts as a suspension damper.
On the 2CV springs the washers are lubricated with castor oil or vegetable cooking oil.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
This post must have set a record fro length/substance!
I have one probably off an RP. It has a little hole in the top leading into the cyl chamber and is labell "use thin oil"..
Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 137 Threads: 6
Reputation:
3
Location: Germany
Car type: RP 1934
Hello Bob,
exactly. A tiny hole for little amounts of oil. When I saw it, my first thoughts were: "How often? How much? What sort of? Necessary for the mechanical parts (metal) and also for the leather seals?"
I came to the conclusion that seals would get in contact with the oil only at the bottom, provided that the oil does not drip out at the bottom of the wiper motor simply because the whole thing is not a perfectly closed system (no need for, anyway). I think I will go for the "Castrol solution". Good for the mechanical parts (metal) no potential threat for the leather washers. As soon as the washers arrive, I will show the results and failures! in detail.
Regards
Frank
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 59 Threads: 4
Reputation:
2
I was always taught that with oil you use mineral on mineral, vegetable on vegetable, and animal on animal. So mineral on a bicycle, linseed on a cricket bat, and neatsfoot on a horse harness. The best thing for your new seals would be soak them in neatsfoot oil, though whether it is worth several pounds for 500ml. (plenty on Ebay), is up to you.
Cliff.
Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 137 Threads: 6
Reputation:
3
Location: Germany
Car type: RP 1934
Thank you Dave,
they seem to be the right ones. Will order them at once. Thank you for the link. The old seal which you see in the photo is the better seal, the other seal is torn and leaky. Kind regards
Frank