Rear springs

[Duncan Grimmond]

I've ordered some new rear springs and, in trying to prepare myself for the task, I'm looking at my rear end. I have hydraulic brakes on a Morris 8(?) axle and I'm wondering if I have to remove the drums to get at the bolt/pin which goes through the spring loops and damper mountings. 
When the shackle and powerful bolt are removed will the forward end of the spring fall enough giving clearance to allow me to take everything off in an inboard direction?

[Nick Lettington]

If I understand your question correctly, pretty sure the answers are yes and then no.

There is a cotter pin that is hard to access, but this totally depends on your adapted axle. If the cotter pin has not been fitted it may be possible to remove the pin from the spring eye without too much additional disassembly. 

I have changed the springs on a Mk 1 Ruby and an ORT. In both cases removing the U-bolt and substantial bolt did nothing to allow me to move the springs even when I removed them completely and drove up and down a bumpy lane. In both cases the only way to remove the springs was with the axle removed, on one occasion then placing a long scaffold pole on bricks against the eye and twatting it from the front of the car with a 14lb sledge hammer swung between my legs. 

wishing you the very best of luck... it's a fun job!

[Duncan Grimmond]

That sounds like a nightmare! Any more tales of trouble-free success?

[Geoff101]

I removed mine when I had the body off the chassis so everything was easier to get at. If the spring pins are stuck when you remove the cotters, you might have to remove not only the drums, but the hubs as well to get at the back of the pin and knock it out.

On the plus side though, my springs pretty much just pulled out with a bit of wiggling once the bolts and shackles we're out.

[Bob Culver]

It is surprising how tight the springs become lodged. When one wheel lifts and the other falls quite a distorting force on the springs and would expect to keep them free. Because the springs narrow when fully drooped reuniting the axle with the spring eyes can be fun unless all lifted somehow.

[AustinWood]

I think the original question was about removing the pin that goes through the axle and the spring eye rather than the cotter holding the pin.
The answer is yes and no. The pin lines up with the threaded holes in the hub that hold the brake drum on. A long thin drift can be put through the hole and used to drive the pin out. However if it's tight a thin drift may not be up to the job in which case the hub needs to be removed.

[Howard Wright]

Hi Duncan

You can get (or make) a puller to remove the spring pin, although I've never quite worked out how to get it past the widened section of the pin!

If you post a photo of the axle looking towards the brake backplate we might be able to work out how the Morris axle has been fitted.  If (as I suspect) the axle is Morris and comes complete with backplates then there isn't going to be a hole through the backplate to use a drift on!

Cheers

Howard

[Dave Mann]

With the hydraulic back in situ it is very difficult to remove the cotter pin for the rear spring pin, I find it easier to remove the hub and backplate then you can see what you are doing.

[Duncan Grimmond]

This is all sounding like a major production! I'll take pics of the rear end and post them in the hope someone can give me some less stressful pointers!

[Andy Bennett]

I did both mine on an RP in a day and I am no Austin 7 genius.
I replaced pins and if I recall drove them out without much issue.
First I loosened the U bolts, and loosened the big bolt by drilling a hole through the floor pan to access the head.
Then I drove up and down the road bouncing.
Having then removed the big bolt and driving out the pin, the springs pulled out of the chassis rail with little effort.
Appreciating i might have been lucky it might not be the big job others have experienced.

Andy