Big End Advise Please

[oldswede1947]

Firstly I would like to say thank you for allowing me to join the group.

I am going to replace the sump gasket on my chummy with a Silicone one.
Is it possible to remove the sump with the engine in the car?
I have taken out all the bolts, but the sump will not pass the chassis members at the front.

[Mark McKibbin]

The sump should come off in situ what model is your car, does it have a pressed metal or alloy sump?

[Jack in the Box]

Welcome Oldswede,

I wanted to investigate a nasty noise on the engine of my 1928 AD and thought I'd start by dropping the sump in the car.

I too found this impossible for the same reason that you say. I think it is the oil pump that stops the standard steel sump from being moved to the rear of the car to allow the front of the sump to clear the chassis rails.

I had to take the engine out. It took me a long time as there was a creative repair to the crankcase that stopped the long stud for the bacon slicer clearing the bulkhead. Ended up having to raise the front of the body!

Good luck.

Alan

[Chris KC]

I'm surprised. I have a deep alloy sump on mine and also dropped suspension but I can still get the sump off. It may not drop straight down but it should be possible to slide it out. Consider loosening the engine mounting bolts (mine are never tight anyway) and you can heave the engine up a little - just watch the fan doesn't gouge the radiator. The only internal obstruction is the oil pump at rear N/S corner. Biggest external obstruction is the track rod but it shouldn't be necessary to undo it.

[Chris Garner]

Completely agree with Chris' comments. It can be a little fiddly especially when lying on your back but it will come off. 
When you've taken as many as I, and I expect Chris, have, it becomes second nature! Persevere.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I have found it difficult to remove sumps from the last of the Mag. engined and first of coil engined chassis.

The only way to remove it on these cars is to lift the front of the crankcase up slightly. Alloy sumps require a slight trim around the front sides to fit these chassis, in my experience.

[Nick Turley]

I do not use any washers on the big ends unless they are needed to help with balancing.
Deep nylock nuts, big end bolts only use once.

[Duncan Grimmond]

An aero engineer I know maintains any spring or "shake proof" washer does no good and may do harm. New bolts, new nuts correctly tightened hold better than any spring type.
Star washers are very good for electrical connections.
I find this difficult to get used to as I've been using spring washers all my life but I think he is more likely to be correct as the CAA Inspectors are not known to be slouches.

[Tony Griffiths]

I've found one of the Loctite "wicking grades" such as 290 to be very effective. A nut and bolt can be assembled tight and a dab of Loctite works its way in. Used on a very fast Scott motorcycle that was very vibration prone at high revs - to get the best performance one changed up as hands vibrated off the handlebars - and nothing ever fell off (except me...).

[Bob Culver]

Tab washers have to be just the right hardness and totally free of burrs. Reused in rotating engine risk of lugs breaking off.
Cotter pins a pain. Some are too springy. And bits can break off softer ones. Spring washers come in two types, some with vicious burrs. This in particular confuses torque wrench, gouges metal, and eccentrically loads and stresses bolt, undesirable where strength marginal as gudgeon clamp. One virtue of original bolts full 5/16 and very accurately locate halves. But rare to find any not stretched and may have suffered hammering from a run b.e. On my car the no of tightening sequences to prcisely fit  b.es. over the decades must be approaching the cycles for fatigue failure! Completely rigid joints fully tightend do not loosen. Spring washers are for less critical situations where tension eases off. I ran my Austin and Jowett for decades with no locks. Essential that thread does not bottom, radius does not bind etc.