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Ammeter
#1
Hello
Just about to start a rewire on my Ruby.
I always thought Ammeters were not affected by voltage ???
Was hoping to use a new motorcycle one from eBay however it lists it as for 12 volts
I am using 6volt equipment
Comments Please
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#2
An ammeter will only read the current flowiing in the circuit it is connected in. The voltage applied to that circuit determines how much current will flow and consequently measured by the ammeter which is connected in series.

The only parameter you need to worry about is the full scale deflection of the ammeter (for example 16-0-16 Amps) not the voltage applied to the circuit itself.

Good luck with the rewire.
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#3
Agreed should be fine. Field strength of the coil is proportional to current only, I had took it up Confused
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#4
Unless you are thinking of using a digital ammeter you should be fine. I am curious to know why you don't want to use an original though - there seem to be plenty around.
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#5
The original was damaged and I will consider any other originals
I don’t like the Ruby one with no terminals, just a cable wound on a small bracket
Not seen any nice originals.
Let me know
Regards
Tim
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#6
If the ammeter has a built in light you would have to change that, but not normally a problem.
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#7
Why on earth don't you like the originals!? passing an unbroken wire through the loop on the back has got to be better than cutting the wire and attaching through a couple of screw terminals which could come loose......or am I missing something??

   
Black Art Enthusiast
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#8
Exclamation 
I concur - The looped wire is safer.  The paxolin strip that is intended to prevent the female part of the terminals form turning as the screws are tightened or loosened is weak and often broken or missing.  Likewise the tubular insulators covering the terminals have often got lost in previous years and being live on an unfused feed could allow a direct short from battery to earth.   

If you use the wire loop as ruby, check the direction of the loop gives a correct discharge response before putting the dash panel back in place.

On the original set up the dash lamp is permanently live (ooh err mother) and will need a new feed if changing to the wire loop.
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#9
OK OK
Convinced Me to use the wire loop !
Up dates to follow.
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#10
Bit taken aback by the crudeness, although all basically very simple. The early ammeters seem reasonably accurate and can be used to set net output at 8-10 amps no lights. Dunno how accurate the external loop ones are. (With original 18w bulbs dynamos could be set to balance but noone now uses these)
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