Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,108 Threads: 110
Reputation:
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi David
I had a knocking noise from the same area on the RK. I found that the torque tube socket was not supporting the torque tube properly and could be moved up and down very slightly. Tightening the big castellated nut a couple of segments seems to have cured this.
Just another item to check!!
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Thanks, Howard. Normally i would have dashed to the garage to check. However, given that the garage is full of dead Peugeot with my trolley jack supporting its front end as its front suspension in in a hundred bits, I shall have to wait until tomorrow to get underneath the Seven.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
Reputation:
14
Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Knocking noise is sorted! It was the fact that the offside rear footwell was touching the chassis crossmember at the point where the longitudinal strengthener is riveted on. I am not sure how the floor got into this plight, but it may be something to do with the fact that the rear floor looks a bit like granny's patchwork quilt from the underside.
The floorpan was extraordinary tough but I have now managed to adjust it to give me about an eighth of an inch clearance all the way along.
Tested it by putting Lee (15 stone) behind me in the back and going down the track and up again, and the noise is gone!
Thank you Bruce for the suggestion about the rear spring clip. I found on close examination that it was just kissing the wiring loom where it passes to the rear lights and flashers, so this has been rectified.
Thank you also Howard. I was already aware that the torque tube mounting knocked but had not got around to adjusting it. Alas, someone has been there before me and the adjusting nut is tight up to the housing. I recall that there was a thread about this problem some time ago, so I must search the forum for it. It any event, it is not causing me much distress at present, except if I am a bit rough with the clutch, so it can go on the (ever growing!) list of things to be done when the car comes off the road for the winter. At present, the car is otherwise going very well and I have things to do with it over the next few weeks, Tomorrow I am taking it to Dolgellau for the annual 'Hwyl yr Haf' funday and I shall take it to the AGM of the Meirion Classic Car Club on the 10th August.
So, although the suggestions were not quite "on the money", they did reveal problems that either have been or will have to be rectified in the near future, so thanks again!
I should also thank Chris and Greig for their comments. Greig's especially made me smile!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 782 Threads: 26
Reputation:
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Re. the torque tube mounting - I was working on a car, and found too much play in the mounting, causing a knock.. The adjustment was all taken up, and there was no time to strip it and bodge some extra packing.
A good greasing sorted it. and hopefully will keep it going for some time to come.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
Reputation:
14
Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Simon, I keep mine well greased in the hope that it will preserve it until I can sort it out. There is a box of assorted dead baulk rings from various gearboxes at work, so I may raid this for something to make a suitable packing piece. when i (eventually) have it apart.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
Reputation:
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I have been known to file the face of the female part of the torque tube mounting, which allows the castellated 'nut' to go another notch or two, then keep it well greased to reduce future wear.
Robert Leigh
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
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Location: Auckland, NZ
The ever recurring problem of slack torque tube ball joint mentioned above. Wear is quite rapid; despite regular greasing throughout my car was out of adj at 100,000 miles .Wear is very irregular and it is important the joint is not tight at the extremes of spring travel or something is likely to break. Not easy to test; most have to tolerate some play. Note that the clamping effect increases considerably when the locking bolts are tightened.
Is anyone building up and re contouring the spheres on an exchange basis? Is there any way of entrapping a piece of nylon or somesuch?
- sorry !