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Does anyone know where I might get a new needle valve for the carb on my Mk2 Ruby ?
I have looked at the usual spares suppliers but don't seem to be able to find one.
Thanks
Joe.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 611 Threads: 19
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Location: Hampshire UK
Burlen in Salisbury list a rebuild kit but I can't tell if a needle valve is included.
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Thanks John , I will have a look on their website.
Kind regards
Joe.
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
You could talk to Steve Hodgson, SMH Services at Hove. He should be able to help.
Robert Leigh
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
I had a Burlen carb kit and there is a new needle valve supplied.
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Thanks Robert and David for the info.
I am now not 100 percent sure if I have a faulty needle valve as it seems to shut off fine when tested but I still have a slight incontinence problem when the car stops after a run !
I am thinking that I may be better trying, first, to lower the fuel level slightly by fitting a thicker washer under the needle valve ?
The brass float appears to have a bit of a dent in the top so the fuel level may be a little high as a result. I also seem to occasionally have over fuelling issues which may be linked ?
Is there a prescribed method for accurately setting the float level ?
Regards
Joe.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Have you had occasion to replace the fuel pump? There is an issue with some replacement pumps where the spring that returns the diaphragm and thus provides pressure to the carb feed is to strong. This causes the carb fuel level to be high, which manifests itself by a drip from the carb beak when the engine is shut off.
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Hi David.
My car is fitted with an SU electric pump.
I had followed the thread dealing with the over pressuring of the mechanical pumps and I had it in the back of my mind to see if the output pressure could be reduced on the SU.
I have had a quick look at the pump, which is new, but couldn't see any obvious means of adjustment ?
Hopefully I may have time this coming weekend to firstly try a thicker washer beneath the needle valve and then perhaps try to reduce the pump pressure.
Does anyone out there know if there is a way of adjusting the SU pump ?
Many thanks
Joe.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
03-07-2019, 07:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-07-2019, 07:39 PM by David Stepney.)
There are two types of SU pump. One type has a 'short suck' and 'long blow' and is fitted adjacent to the petrol tank They were used on cars like the Jaguar XJ6, MGB etc.
The other sort has a 'long suck' and 'short blow' and were fitted to the bulkhead, as in the Morris Minor.
I am going back a long way and my memory isn't what it once was, but I seem to recall that the AUA series pumps were the 'long suck, short blow' type and the AUF series were the 'short suck long blow' sort. It might be worth checking which sort you have fitted.
I don't think they are adjustable. The delivery pressure was set at the factory and was governed (it memory serves me aright) by the springs under the valves.
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David
The pump is an AUA type and is fitted on the bulkhead so should be ok.
I have ordered some new washers today so will try and lower the float level a little.
The start of the fuel incontinence seemed to be coincidental with an unusual bout of very hot weather in the Yorkshire Pennines so I was wondering if temperature may be playing a part in the problem?
Thanks for your assistance.
Regards
Joe.