Trailer choice advice

[Robert Leigh]

I use a 2 wheel Brian James trailer. They do both 2 and 4 wheel with a fold up draw bar, which mine has. It takes the Ulster style special with no overhang (I think the runways are about 3 metres), but if you fold up the draw bar it becomes a front leg, and takes minimal garage space, assuming you can spare garage space for a trailer, which is always a good idea particularly to preserve tyres.
Robert Leigh

[Steve Jones]

And this is mine. Four Wheel Woodford bought new in 2003 and still serving me very well. The wheels were re-painted last year and it looks much better for it. At the time I bought it I had a larger car as well as my Sevens but now, Sevens only. I have thought that it might be time to down size as I can't see I'll ever have anything bigger to tow in the future but finding a smaller version with four wheels has always proved very difficult. I have had a two wheeler in the past and wouldn't want to go back.

   

Steve

[Hedd_Jones]

Most of my trailers have been home made (by others).

If there is no data on it, I stamp a date on it to identify date of manufacture (based on what the vendor told me). And I take it to the weighbridge, weigh it, and stamp this onto the trailer also (saves having to remember it). The present trailer is unbraked single axle. I can get a seven on it legally behind my Mondeo so long as the seven has no mudguards on.

The trailer regs in the UK are a mess. The date you took your test has a big effect, as does when the trailer was made, and what your towing it with.

Unbraked generally you can only tow a trailer, where the mass of the trailer + load is 50% of the mass of the towing vehicle. This towing vehicle mass is also a mess in the way it is legally defined, and the rozzers and DVSA have in the past both been guilty of not understanding this. Take it as the kerb weight as declared by the manufacturer and you'll be on the safe side.

The tow car type approval defines what you can tow with a braked trailer, there will be a maximum mass that its approved for car + trailer + load. Provided your axle weights are also within the type approval (and tyre capacity for the trailer), your load can be anywhere. So an empty car, and a well balanced trailer you can actually carry a fair bit more than the guides tell you on your trailer perfectly legally. Though I have to say this demonstrates the laws are total bollox. A heavier tow vehicle is safer and the law should reflect this.

The benefit of using an old trailer with little information on the plate (e.g only a date so you can demonstrate the newer regs dons apply) is that you cannot be done for towing an empty trailer which is within the maximum authorised mass etc, but it is plated to a higher MAM you get had. This only applies to licences after a certain date, but is ludicrous.

Personally, my view on safety is that the lighter whatever it is on the end of your tow ball is better (as noted above). This is all about the tail wagging the dog. I have towed 5 ton with my 1.8t Mondeo, and regularly have near 10 ton behind my 8 ton traction engine going down the road, it makes driving challenging.

For this reason I'd avoid a twin axle trailer for an Austin 7 on the basis that the load can easily be carried well within the capacity of a single axle, and the weight of the additional wheels, brakes, axle, mudguards etc is something that you don't need and adds significantly to the weight. If your trailer is balanced as it should, with a small nose bias onto the tow vehicle, a single axle trailer is as stable as a twin in the event of a puncture.

The other comment on safety is that the lower the load is, the better. The car trailer style, where the deck is just above the axle is far 'safer' than one where the deck is above the wheels, like a farmers Ifor Williams. Think about centre of gravity. Look at Charles Ulster on his car trailer on mini wheels. I bet its almost impossible to flip. Yet a box saloon on an Ivor would be far less stable.

[Dellie]

I rented this one (the L version) https://hapert.com/nl/configurator/step-2/model/indigo
It was the most stable trailer I have ever driven, but is quite expensive to buy.
200kg weight so you can put an Austin Seven on it to keep it below 750kg.

[Douglas Alderson]

I have been looking to upgrade my trailer for some time.  Home made by someone else and came with the A7, the length is ok but quite wide.  Some points to consider.

Smart car trailers are an option but bear in mind that the smart car engine is in the back, so the A7 would need to go on backwards.  Some are ok but double check before you buy as some have the axle further back to get the balance right.

The ability to get the A7 off the trailer with out unhitching it would be good, there are some tilting trailers.  This is also possible if the ramps are long enough, but then you need to store / move the ramps.

Consider where it is stored when not in use and if you have to move it around and it that is you pushing it.

Also if you want a floor in the trailer or open.

Do you intend to use the trailer for any other purpose and do you want small sides.

I have reached the conclusion that what I want in a trailer probably does not exist.  E.g same width as A7 so takes up minimal space, tips without unhitching, has small side panels so I can use for other things.  A plant trailer comes close.

[Dellie]

This was my combination, it drove very stable.

[Greig Smith]

This is mine, single axle with 14" commercial tyres on it. It's a break-neck, so I can drive on & off by loosening 2 bolts.

It was designed by an Engineering friend of mine and professionally built by a local Engineering Works. The original was for his Alfa Giulia race car. Mine is #3 of the same design. I had the treads widened to take the narrower track of the Austins. It tows everything from the 7's to my Giulietta Alfa's and the '28 Ford A in between. The hubs are VW Golf rears complete with the shoes & it's braked via the Golf handbrake cables. Eagle eyes will spot the mudguards are old commercial tyres cut in half - fantastic as they never crack, split, break or rattle loose. 

I made up a separate 'drop-in' frame for the A section at the hitch. This allows me to transport both racing 7's at one go. 

At 5'10 and 69kg's dripping wet, I find a similar size double axle trailer almost impossible to maneuver, but this single axle is very easy to move & believe it or not, these 2 Sevens together are so nicely balanced that I can unhitch it & move this set-up on level concrete on my own.

Mr Plod this end is rather dozy & application of the regs is a little more lax in the Colonies than on Yonder Isle, as long as the licence is current & the lights work..... hey-ho.

Being me I keep it in all in good working order with new tyres.

Aye
Greig

Africa is not for sissies

[Steve Bryant]

My trailer was made by a British Columbia firm, to take Caterham Super Sevens. This being said it is stil only just narrow enough to take the '29 chassis. It is very light as it is all aluminum welded construction with the steel suspension frame under the body. The wheels are wide 10"  five stud rims with  appropriately rated tires for the caterham's weight, somewhat overkill for a A7.
Stephen

   
trailer sits dead level behind car.
   

photo shopped pic showing size of A7 on trailer to same scale:
   

[Ruairidh Dunford]

960 or 940 Steve?

[Charles P]

960 or 940 Steve?

The Volvo enthusiast is only lightly hidden here.....