All Alloy Cup progress

[AllAlloyCup]

KI
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Good weather here if a bit fresh so working on
The Cup out of the garage.

I’d had found my bacon slicer starter was rotating
the wrong way, but thanks to A7 friends on the Forum
I rearranged the brush positions to make it work properly.

So today I laid in the heavy duty live feed cable and while
I was under the car did the brake light cabling as well.

Thought I’d then check the circuit and starter were working....
But no, pressing the starter only turned it fitfully 
whereas off the car it positively whizzed.

However a jump lead feed directly to the live post on
the top of the starter whizzed the motor , engaged the pinion
and turned the engine over nicely, no plugs in at this stage.

Must be the switch? So pulled the motor off again!!!

I had previously disassembled the switch as it was filthy and greasy
Perhaps I’d not cleaned it enough?

But no as it’s a push through switch the push rod exits
the rear of the switch and this rod had been hitting
one of the heavy duty cable connections inside the switch.

So decided to revamp the inner switch cables and end fittings so
that they missed the central push rod and also did not go near the 
Starter ring/flywheel which sticks up into the starter casing.

Had to bend the copper lugs at the cable ends and refitted 

At last a working starter and now to refit all the floors, flitch plates
Etc, etc and soon to return to bulkhead wiring completion.

Worryingly not able to rouse the plater on the phone this week.

Regards

Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup

[AllAlloyCup]

Nice weather to get under cars... lots of ground clearance with this Cup!

So laid in the main power feed to the fixed up
bacon slicer via a battery isolator switch on the floor at
the passenger side. Left enough slack in the cable to allow the starter to be lifted off for inspecting the flywheel marks.

Also laid in a heavy negative earth cable from the earthing point 
on the chassis cross member to the gearbox casing and then another
Clean earth to the alloy bulkhead, thence to the dash switch panel.

Bolted on the bottom fan pulley and the re fixed the flitch plates,
The drivers side had an oval aperture for the draglink but this needed considerably enlarged
to avoid anything fouling at full lock.

Started to re run the armoured cables to the front of the chassis for lamps etc.

Holding off bolting down the starter till Thursday when Neil is coming over to help
me set the static timing.

Finally got hold of the platers , rad shell promised for early June. Cutting it fine for Guildtown, though by early June
The car should be running with its wings on etc.

Not sure of the condition of the dynamo but will fit it and see what happens.

Also started fitting the glass to the window frame, rather nerve wracking.

Will sort out the undersills tomorrow and fit the doors which are now complete
Apart from nickelling, need to start up the plating outfit again soon.

Need to start filling the straight exhaust pipe with wet sand prior to going on a bender with Peter!
the silencer( not really it’s a cherry Bomb straight through) silencer)and tail pipe are already installed.


More pictures soon!

Regards

Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Bill - I have a spare rad shell you can borrow, if your plater lets you down.

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi Ruairidh

It’s a 3 panel Chummy rad shell and thanks for the kind offer.

The platers have promised to bring it to Thirlestane where they have a stand.
Will confirm next week.

Itching to put the wings on but not yet!!
Regards

Bill G

[AllAlloyCup]

M
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Neil came over today to help me with setting up the timing.

We set the flywheel at TDC then marked the camshaft gear
With a centre dab and some Tippex, plus marked the lower fan belt pulley
With a notch and made a small matching arrow pointer on one of the fan support casting
Studs. 

This then let us finally bolt down the bacon slicer with external
marks now available for strobing.

Then moved on to inserting the dynamo, bolting in position and then
slotting in the distributor, using a  refurbished DK4 with auto advance 
to set the timing and then tuning but may switch to an Accuspark later

Sorted out the position of the distributor and marked up the leads.

Mounted the headlamp dip switch on the column and the trafficator switch on the dash
plus ran the cabling to the bulkhead junction boxes.

With the bacon slicer in position , now able to finalise all the floor and toeboard panels.

Neil suggested checking the clutch so I sat in the car and he worked the starting handle.

Clutch appears to be OK and smooth with about 3/4” of travel? More than I expected!!

I’ve not sat in the car much before but it’s obvious
that there’s  not much space for the right foot, between the brake and accelerator pedals.

I many need to buy neater narrower shoes!

One other surprise was the the clutch pedal is almost too far forward!

Too much legroom in a Cup ! Who would have believed it?

Also the gear stick I have seems too short( off a saloon?)

I remember seeing a very long lever on one of Tom Abernethy’s cars.
The seat back is comfy but a bit too upright so may employ
A cushion to support my lower back.

Will now finish off the wiring at the front of the car, treat the inside of the petrol tank
With POR and reinstall it , plus the bulkhead cover , and the bonnet rest and associated rubber strip.

I’ve had to move the forward 6 way Lucas junction boxes mounted on the 
flitch plates as they were too close to both the exhaust manifold and the end of the dynamo.

Tomorrow will  wire up the dash and return to making the exhaust downpipe.
Plus finalise undersills and door fitting.
Engine start up soon!!!

Regards

Bill G

Aka AllAlloyCup

[AllAlloyCup]

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Steady progress yesterday and today.
Fitted rear and front wings, for now without wing piping.
Refitted the doors for the last time hopefully. Though still to nickel plate
the door catches.

Slotted the glazing into the new nickel plated frame.

Neil gave me some POR—15 to neutralise any rust in the petrol tank
and sure enough it did a great job. Once rinsed out with clean boiling water
The interior looks to be a nice shade of grey metal.

Installed almost all of the wiring on the dash and bulkhead and
to both 6 way junction boxes on the front flitch plates.

From there leads can connect to the side lamps, headlamps( dip and head), plus indicator feeds
, taking care to provide a directly wired Earth to all lamps( nearly all LED’s.)

Tested the sidelight / tail light circuits with a power lead directly from the battery,
but failed to get them to come on from the dash switch, will need to have close look at my connections!
Plus wondering if the internals of the Lucas control panel needs its internal contacts cleaned?

Once the wiring is fully debugged I can finally fit the petrol tank for the last time.

The SU carb is also ready to fit, but I’ve still to make a new exhaust downpipe,
possibly the last thing I’ve got to make before starting the engine.

The rad shell is still not plated but have been promised it for early June.

So may jury rig the radiator next week and try to fire up the engine!!

Regards

Bill G

[Mike Costigan]

Doesn't that look just great! When you first talked about leaving the body in unpainted alloy I thought, oh no, it needs some colour. But now that I've seen the (almost) complete car, my vote is to leave it as is.

[AllAlloyCup]

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I decided to dismantle and clean the Lucas control panel
as using a test light proved that it was not switching as it should.

It was also pretty greasy but came apart OK.  Cleaned up all
the component bits with the Dremel and a mini wire brush,
And reassembled. All the components looked fine apart from a 
Copper spring fitment which carries current once you operate
Either of the two panel switches. I suspected that one contact 
was not being made, hence the failure of the sidelamp switch circuit.
So adjusted the spring and reassembled .

Still not working!!!

Then I noticed a small spot of solder on a strap from the B post
near where a cross strap feeds current to the switch parts.

I’d assumed that the brass straps were intended to touch and make a circuit
But although they were touching , no current was passing.

So decided to solder the straps with a minimal amount of solder.

Hey Presto !! Working switches !!! Now to re-install in the dash 
And check the lamp circuits again, plus investigate why the cut out hums when 
Ignition is switched on( miswired somewhere?)

Regards

Bill G

[JonE]

Well done!
Bill - remember Tony Betts does those brass inserts very reasonably to correct such a problem...

[Mark R]

I believe they are for coil panels only, I'm sure Tony will correct me if I'm wrong.