Front hub removal separation

[merlinart]

Hi all

I expect that in my enthusiasm I've jumped the gun somewhat!

Having removed my front axle and mounted it up in a vice, I took off on brake drum, then using a 2 legged puller, gently pulle the whole hub off in one go.

I've discovered of course that the hub is in 2 halves, but doesn't seem to want to separate easily. What is the best solution, I don't want to use heat (yet).

I've not tackled the other side yet, as I thought it best to pose the question. I've consulted Woodrow and looked on the web, but all suggestions are that it should simply separate.

I've since discovered that there is a special puller, but can't quite see that  this would make much difference...or am I simply just missing the point?

I'll continue persevering and no doubt learning, but if anyone can suggest the best and only way, I shall be much obliged.

regards

Arthur

[Derek Sheldon]

Pne has to ask, how the hell you got the split pin out to remove the retaining nut. Put it back on and do the nut up. Get the correct puller from cherished suppliers , remove the outer,remove nut, put outer back on do up wheel nuts , use puller to remove whole assembly. Should have removed the three c/s set screws from the outset.

[merlinart]

Pne has to ask, how the hell you got the split pin out to remove the retaining nut. Put it back on and do the nut up. Get the correct puller from cherished suppliers , remove the outer,remove nut, put outer back on do up wheel nuts , use puller to remove whole assembly. Should have removed the three c/s set screws from the outset.

The split pin came out easily through the hole in the stub axle. I removed the 3 csk screws to get the drum off.

I'm now asking a very daft question....if having taken the outer hub off, assuming it comes off easily, presumably you mean knock the front bearing out first, then put it back on and do the wheel nuts up...is this right?

This is a late Ruby front axle.

Arthur

[Derek Sheldon]

PThe outer will come off, this allows the split pin to be removed and then the nut. Place the outer back over and do the wheel nuts up as far as they will easily go, not fully up. The extractor ca now be used as previously but this time the full set of bearings will come with it.
If you need to talk it through get my tel number from the back of grey mag , Rosengart reg

[Charles P]

PThe outer will come off, this allows the split pin to be removed and then the nut. Place the outer back over and do the wheel nuts up as far as they will easily go, not fully up. The extractor ca now be used as previously but this time the full set of bearings will come with it.

I'm clearly a hooligan.
I just hammer a box spanner onto the nut, heave on it to shear the split pin and go from there.

Charles

[Derek Sheldon]

Youwill not get an argument from me

[Alan]

Charles, what you do is this:-
Notice the threaded bit on the hub has two diametrally opposed holes. Find a split pin the same length as the hub nut flats are wide. You can fit this with the hub assembled through one of those holes. Don't knock over the legs of the pin. You wouldn't be able to anyway. When you want to remove the hub use a pop rivet stem or something as a drift to poke out the split pin. You can then bash on your box spannner without knackering the thread.
The split pin doesn't seem to mind not being bent over - I've been doing it this way for years.

P.s. In all other ways I'm a hooligan too.

[merlinart]

Charles, what you do is this:-
Notice the threaded bit on the hub has two diametrally opposed holes. Find a split pin the same length as the hub nut flats are wide. You can fit this with the hub assembled through one of those holes.  Don't knock over the legs of the pin. You wouldn't be able to anyway. When you want to remove the hub use a pop rivet stem or something as a drift to poke out the split pin.  You can then bash on your box spannner without knackering the thread.
The split pin doesn't seem to mind not being bent over - I've been doing it this way for years.  

P.s. In all other ways I'm a hooligan too.

Thanks chap, just been up to my workshop, and now see the error of my ways, and why the proper puller for the job is required. I'm used to split pins through stub axles on splined MG hubs. Will have to obtain one tomorrow....best chap to buy from?

I'm in Sussex and might just have a day out anyway and a chat with a specialist on other parts required....one specialist is near Bournemouth from memory, will look him up, but if anyone nearer to me with a puller who I can visit tomorrow to purchase, perhaps someone might advise.

Good forum this one!

regards

Arthur

[Steve Jones]

Charles, what you do is this:-
Notice the threaded bit on the hub has two diametrally opposed holes. Find a split pin the same length as the hub nut flats are wide. You can fit this with the hub assembled through one of those holes.  Don't knock over the legs of the pin. You wouldn't be able to anyway. When you want to remove the hub use a pop rivet stem or something as a drift to poke out the split pin.  You can then bash on your box spannner without knackering the thread.
The split pin doesn't seem to mind not being bent over - I've been doing it this way for years.  

P.s. In all other ways I'm a hooligan too.

Or, use a Roll Pin instead of a Split Pin. 

Thanks Terry

Steve

[Derek Sheldon]

I’m in Basingstoke and have spares. Same comment about the phone