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All Alloy Cup progress
Finished mine on Saturday ready to catch the night boat to France on Saturday evening.

I'm quite pleased with the result, there's not much clearance under the rear wings when loaded so I may need to raise them a bit.

Otherwise the lowered suspension helps a lot and the Longstone tyres are a big improvement. Just need to get the slow running mixture sorted and I'll be all set.


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Looking very purposeful Tom - nice work!
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Hi Tom

Your new wings look great too , plus like the step mats.

Have a safe journey in France.

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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Looks very good Tom! I am actually surprised more of the reproduction Cups have not been put together along these lines, as R said very purposeful.
Black Art Enthusiast
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Back on the Cup case....

Neil came over this afternoon to measure up some
Radiator dimensions for one he is getting made.

In the morning I made the last visible alloy panel
to sit atop the petrol tank. Standard method , paper template,
Transfer to plywood former, cut alloy panel oversize, form flange
with a selection of hammers. This panel with be held in position 
By the wooden bonnet rest and wrap nicely round the tank
With rubber profile neatly finishing the bottom edge.

Charged up the new 6v battery and proved that the bacon slicer 
looks a goer after cleaning the switch contacts.

In between times lacquered the new alloy panel and finish painted 
The petrol tank after first putting in a pint of white spirit and some rough stones
And agitated for about 10 minutes, getting a fair amount of rust dust out
But second flush out pretty clear.

No leaks either!!! So tank can now be finally fitted, once the starter motor is installed 
as access much easier without the tank in position.

I had previously dismantled and also cleaned the dynamo internals and fitted new brushes and thought
if I put 6v + on one terminal and earthed the casing it would spin( fast?)
but no, it barely turned.

This dynamo has the shunt resistance wires in a small housing on the casing.
My control panel has the summer winter charge settings and I think this dyno is
Compatible ?
Can’t figure out if this dynamo is OK but don’t otherwise
Know how to get it tested?  Any suggestions gratefully received.

Plenty still to do.......

Regards

Bill G

Aka AllAlloyCup
Based near the Scottish Border,
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(06-05-2019, 08:34 PM)Ian Williams Wrote: Looks very good Tom! I am actually surprised more of the reproduction Cups have not been put together along these lines, as R said very purposeful.

The lowered body position is a great idea and several have tried it - they look and handle great but to do it properly you need to alter the body structurally otherwise there will be problems with the rear axle touching in various places.

My friend’s Cup in the Outer Hebrides has the same set up lines as Tom’s but the body is now damaged, Tom is aware of these issues and I hope he has managed to overcome them, it will provide a fun car!
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(06-05-2019, 08:56 PM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote:
(06-05-2019, 08:34 PM)Ian Williams Wrote: Looks very good Tom! I am actually surprised more of the reproduction Cups have not been put together along these lines, as R said very purposeful.

The lowered body position is a great idea and several have tried it - they look and handle great but to do it properly you need to alter the body structurally otherwise there will be problems with the rear axle touching in various places.

My friend’s Cup in the Outer Hebrides has the same set up lines as Tom’s but the body is now damaged, Tom is aware of these issues and I hope he has managed to overcome them, it will provide a fun car!


Thanks, if i was building a new body from scratch I would allow clearance for lowered rear springs. The inner ends of the brake cam shafts are fouling the body on mine over big bumps when fully laden, I am hoping that i can trim them back and relieve the body to avoid this. As R says there are a few around, including David Cochrane's - I don't think he has had problems with the body so there must be some variation in the shape over the rear axle. There is also a supercharged car that belongs to a friend of Tom A, I've never seen it in the flesh but I assume that the body was built specially as it has an outside exhaust and no doors.

According to John Bolster's autobiography, GE Cups had a reputation in period for crashing - he owned two, the second one built on an Ulster chassis which he says was much improved. A friend of my brother's drove mine some time ago and said that it had nearly as much power as his Ulster combined with the handling of his Box saloon!
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Nice work Tom and Bill!
Looking at your fuel tank, Bill, it appears to have a bayonet fitting filler cap, all quite correct.   Do make sure that the filler cap fastens down securely as they have been known to spring off and you don't want petrol pouring down onto the hot engine and your crown jewels!
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(06-05-2019, 12:30 PM)Tom Coates Wrote: Finished mine on Saturday ready to catch the night boat to France on Saturday evening.

I'm quite pleased with the result, there's not much clearance under the rear wings when loaded so I may need to raise them a bit.

Otherwise the lowered suspension helps a lot and the Longstone tyres are a big improvement. Just need to get the slow running mixture sorted and I'll be all set.


Very nice Tom. It was pretty nifty before and this will be even better. 
I'm also a fan of Longstones. They look good and work well

Charles
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Hi Malcolm

It was nice to drop by on Friday to see you again
And the contents of the motor house. Ann was very impressed!

As regards the petrol tank, actually I had it changed to have a screw on
Cap as I too was worried about petrol dropping both onto the engine and my knees and above!

Neil kindly soldered the fitting onto the tank and I managed to
get a period brass screw on cap off EBay.

I’ve a small Enots glass bowl filter and push on/off tap to refurb and fit
Which will then give me no excuse not to try to start the car once the dynamo issue is cleared up

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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