Engine mount rubbers

[Reckless Rat]

Due to my car's propensity to share the contents of the sump to the world at large, the engine mounting rubbers do not fare well and swell and split.

Does anyone supply a synthetic replacement, otherwise known as a polybush? If not I might just buy some poly bar and turn myself a few. The worst affected appear to the the top rubber doughnuts.

[GPD697]

Did you ever sort out a rubber replacement?
My problem is - can you replace the rubbers without removing the engine? My engine mount rubbers are well perished but I don't fancy taking the engine out (I probably would not get it back in!) I wondered if I jacked the engine up a little if I could replace the rubbers. I have lots of A7 manuals but NONE show position of the rubbers or tell you how to replace them. Any ideas?

[Douglas Alderson]

Did you ever sort out a rubber replacement?
My problem is - can you replace the rubbers without removing the engine? My engine mount rubbers are well perished but I don't fancy taking the engine out (I probably would not get it back in!) I wondered if I jacked the engine up a little if I could replace the rubbers. I have lots of A7 manuals but NONE show position of the rubbers or tell you how to replace them. Any ideas?

Jacking up the engine a bit and you can replace the rubbers, although from memory when I replaced mine the rad was off the car to stop the nose cone getting stuck.

[Reckless Rat]

I haven't got round to changing my engine rubbers yet. However, if you have the standard set-up you will find it almost impossible to change the pads under the crankcase in situ, particulary for the two rear mountings as you'll not be able to lift the engine high enough to get them off the studs. My car had been modified and the mounting bolts can be removed either from above or below and as such the crankcase can be lifted sufficiently to replace the rubbers in situ. This winter though, the engine/gearbox are coming out because I want to replace the clutch release bearing and do some other general maintenance at the same time. All of it is  easier to do on the bench and I will replace the engine mount rubbers at the same time.

I haven't really found a problem with the pads under the engine. It's the smaller doughnut that goes on top of the crankcase which seems to be the most vulnerable to oil contamination, which eventually leads to failure. Having finally (almost) eradicated most of the oil leaks things are more stable these days, although a change to polybush will certainly help.

[Douglas Alderson]

Having read RR response, my engine is mounted with bolts not as some chassis are with studs.  So I suppose depends on how the engine is mounted.